So the truck wont start, no crank no nothing all lights work etc. I am getting the icp code. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at?my icp voltage is .22 volts with the koeoff. While trying to crank it I get no change in voltage. My ipr is at 14.8 and the ficim is at 47. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing...
View 8 RepliesSo I was have a problem the other day with code p2285 did some more checking and found an hpo system leak. Bad injector o ring. I have fixed that. But now when I got it all put back together and went to start it up now have no crank at all, the wrench light is coming on, when I hook up my scangauge it will not connect (so I can't get any readings or codes) I have checked all the fuses that have to do the the ignition system.
They all seem fine. I can get it to crank if I jump the starter wire to the battery. I really need to get this figured out my mini Cooper is waiting for a new clutch to get here and with my truck down I can't get to my job sites next week. I don't know of its just a coincidence or not but while trying to get he truck to start my batteries got drained so got them charged and one was bad (it's less then a year old).
So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks .... only code I throwing is p2285
Key on engine off
Ipr-14.8
Icp-0
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine running
Ipr-33.5
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp-875
I thought I fixed it before but I was sadly mistaken replaced the ICP and IPR...
So yet another crank no start. Truck is an 03 55k miles The guy I bought the truck off of told me the turbo had been reconditioned about 1000 miles ago. Drove the truck another 1000 miles or so and now having issues. I went to start truck up and noticed it took awhile longer than normal to start up and when it did finally kick over, truck and no power at all. Would idle a bit rough sounded like no turbo spool at all when given throttle. Shut the truck off right and hooked up scangauge to it went to start it and nothing.
Did throw p2285 code ICP low circuit
Values read on scangauge are as follows:
FICM Main Power 48.0V
FICM Logic Power 10-8V
FICM sync is good
ICP Pressure 1540psi on crank
IPR duty cycle 14.8% Key on engine off/48.8% while cranking
At a bit of a loss as to where to look next, would really like to troubleshoot down to the right fix instead of just throwing parts at it. Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. After being cleaned only a few thousand miles could it be stuck again? Seems like I have spark, fuel, oil just acts like its not getting any air.
i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
View 11 RepliesTruck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
View 11 RepliesWife just pulled in said your trucks running rough. Right out the gate went out Checked ICPV its at 0 KOEO... Noticed a CEL P2285...
ICPV seams to be Jumping all around at Idle...
it stutters and smooth's out some I believe its going into default mode...
its acting different then last time the ICP went south thinking a wire is shorted or that's my guess ...
is it just me or do Vehicles seem to break down more when its Cold...
Where is the ICP sensor located?? I am getting code P2285 and according a to a Ford Message this may be because of a bad connection that there is a kit to fix it.
View 14 RepliesI'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.
Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .
Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
View 14 RepliesHad to do the icp sensor originally. went in from the top and discovered my oil cooler was failing too. so i did that. with weather (too tall to fit in the garage) and life getting in the way it's taking me 2 months a little here n there to actually get it done so she's sat for a while. yesterday was moment of truth to get it started again. the batts were old before i started working on it. so i replaced those yesterday.
I've tried and tried to get it to start and it won't turn over. it did for one tenth of a second try. nothing since. I saw that my shifter wasn't exactly in park so i wiggled it and tried to crank it again and now it won't even crank. I have a feeling somehow the transmission isn't reading in park or neutral so it's refusing to crank. I really don't want to tow it.
I drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
View 9 RepliesHad extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
View 9 RepliesEngine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
View 2 RepliesSo, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
View 5 RepliesLong crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
View 1 RepliesEarlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
So I have been fighting an electrical issue off and on since I bought the Excursion and I am at my wits end!
Put in 2 injectors. 1 in November and 1 last week. Thinking that it would fix my P0603 and the missing issue I was having. Plus the truck tossed a code for #4 and #5 injector. According to a snap on scanner and my AE the injectors were bad. The missing issues are gone, but I keep getting a p0603.
Go back to the middle of May. Truck died and refused to start. I put a fuel pump in it due to lack of fuel at one point thru the no starts. Shop had it 2 weeks and replaced the Cam sensor. Truck has been spot on for the last month zero issues.
Fast forward to today! Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. Check codes before hand and have a P132b code. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Clear code, tune the truck and head out for the weekend. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to.
Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. During the 2 hour drive I monitored a few pids on the scan gauge to see how things were on the truck after the work. The following are driving down the road at 2k RPMS 70 MPH give or take 5 MPH.
boost 7.3
map 22.9
EOT 225
FWT 211
TFT 163
CPM .28
ICV 1.9
VGT 57
IPR 37.3
CVI 4-5 (fluctuates)
SYNCH went to 0 when it died.
Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My buddy the KAM P0603 and a new one Crankshaft sensor Pos A/ I can not remember what the code # was.
So after dropping 1500.00 on the truck the last 2 months, I am at a loss. The shop I took it to was a new place for me and I was not impressed. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all.
The 2 options I have are 45 miles away or 100 miles away. After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Where are the known chaffing points on the 03' 6.0L.
So I went to start my 2006 this morning and it would not crank at all. Like the battery was dead ( all the light in the cab and headlights were working fine. ) so I tried to jump it and still nothing no clicks not crank no nothing. Just for fun I went ahead and jumped the starter (using the same method as when I prime the hpo system) starter cranked no problem so I put the key in the on position and cranked the key again still nothing. So I put the key in the on position again and jumped the starter truck fired right up. So I went back in the cab and tried to start it with the key and it started right up like nothing ever was wrong. What was causing this? Also my voltage was at 11.5 with the key on and engine off when it was running the volts were at 12 to 12.5
View 5 RepliesI was driving to a job this morning with my truck loaded with tile for a job and it just died.
It has power to the lights, radio, etc. But when I try to start it it does not even crank and it has no fuel pressure on the gauge and the pump is no running.
It is as if the truck has no power. When it died is was like I turned the key off and it just stopped.