Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Starts / Running Rough Then Die - Fuel Draining Out Of Bowl
May 5, 2016
2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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This has me puzzled to no end. After my son had put fuel in my truck it began to run rough, and had to be towed home, and now won't start. Now the first thing I thought was that he put regular gas in. But he was sure he had not ,and the receipt from the pump indicates diesel. It was hard starting before this happened.
1st Misfortune of having gas put in instead of diesel and did your vehicle run afterwards.
2nd Here are my readings from my scangage:
Sync Yes/1, Ficm main power 48.5 v, ICV .17 (2.01 when cranking). ICP 1572. IPR 50.7.
Checked upper fuel filter for bubbles, none.
Engine oil pressure comes up immediately on cranking.
Don't know what else to check, these readings look fine to me. Only the fuel is something I'm not 100% sure of. It does smell like diesel not gasoline.
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2003 6.0 no start. turn the key to on and nothing happens. dash lights up as it should but I don't hear the glow plugs cycle and no fuel gets into the upper fuel bowl. turn the key over and nothing happens. No starter click nothing. tried the starter wire to the battery trick and it cranks but does not kick over. checked ficm wires and they are secure as well as the injector wire on the intake manifold. it is the original ficm.
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My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
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My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
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Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
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I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
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I have an isspro gauge and did the blue spring about 5 years ago. Since then my fuel pressure is in the 65psi range.
Last week it dropped to 50-55 normal driving and I figured the HFCM was on it's way out (195,000 miles). Replaced the HFCM and the pressure was a bit higher, but not back to it's usual range. Then pulling the boat home from the lake a couple days ago, I saw it at 45psi. On a couple hills it went as low as 40 psi, so I was getting gripped...coasting downhill it only went back up to 50 psi and no higher. Got 'er home and currently not driving it.
In garage with Key On Engine Off, during injector buzz, I can hear a hissing/air noise at the upper filter bowl. Also, the bowl drains empty once the pump cuts off and the sound of air stops too.
I am hoping it's a regulator issue, but I don't know if they are known to wear out or go bad, or if something else in the upper filter housing went bad. So I ordered a new upper fuel filter housing which also has the oil filter tower attached and I'm assuming that these new units would come with the blue spring upgrade already done.
I can check for codes tomorrow when I bring my computer home from work, so I haven't checked for codes yet. I pick up the new filter housing tomorrow and will periodically check back here during the day tomorrow.
Also, while I'm at it: the new HFCM doesn't have the heater. Can I just leave the old connector from the harness un-connected to anything?
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I have an 04 F2 50 with 6.0 with approximately 225,000 miles. I filled up with gas last Wednesday and every so often the truck will start running really rough and then it will clear up. Is it possible to of gotten some bad gas if so what products are out there to clear that up. Could've been injector going bad what are the best products for cleaning injectors. No check engine light on, gauges are good, nothing different on the scan gauge.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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I have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
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I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
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New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
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Trying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
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I want to build a fuel bowl delete/regulated return fuel system for my 2000 f250 . I would like to make a really neat kit and attach all products used so people that want to build their own would have a useful source. I understand that it will probably cost the same but I want to design my own and route it the way I want . I have 3/8 1/2 5/16 and 1/4 stainless tubing as well as a bunch of unions and 90* 45* fittings and a couple tees. What size is the ports for the fuel lines that go into the four corners of the heads . I am a pipe fitter pipe welder by trade so this is basically a mini version of what I do everyday at work. Looking for some size details of the head port sizes so I can get the correct fittings?
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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