Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Started Cranking Longer Than Normal To Start After Sitting For More Than 2 Hours
Nov 19, 2016
About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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I have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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I had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.
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My Corolla sometimes cranks longer than it should when starting. This happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours. Although it doesn't always happen.
It happens when the tank is full and empty. The weather has ranged from 100 down to 60 degrees. The car has 20k miles on it and has had regular dealer servicing. What's going on with it? Otherwise it runs fine
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Having engine knock after sitting all day or over night with only 4K miles on it until temp comes up to normal...
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So we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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Having a puddle of coolant under truck after sitting. Shop said its a oring on the egr cooler. 1200.00? Is that normal?
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My truck when idling kind of spools up a little bit for a few seconds and then the turbo goes back down. sounds really cool actually. its been doing it since the truck was new, sounds like a plane engine shutting down. It does it over and over sometimes. I just deleted the dpf and unplugged egr last night and now i can really hear it! is this normal....
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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Scangauge reads icp ok. Ipr ok. Fmp voltage is all over the place from 42 down to 2. Flp is also all over the place from 11 down to 2 volts. And no Sync. Load checked batteries well. Voltage is 11.5 down to 10.5 when cranking. Fuel good. No pre warning signs. Parked running good. I have read tones of forums but none with 3 issues. Could it be the relay?? Would a bad ficm show no sync on cranking?? Why is my flp voltage so up and down.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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I have an 06 f250 w/ 6.0. Having a no start problem. If my truck is warmed up and sits for 5 min or so and try to start it, it starts fine. If it sits longer than that , no start. But if I wait about an hour and a half, it starts right up. Why would it not start if sitting for between 10- 90 min. Starts fine cold.
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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