Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Running Rough When Cold
Aug 7, 2015
My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
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My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
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I have an 04 F2 50 with 6.0 with approximately 225,000 miles. I filled up with gas last Wednesday and every so often the truck will start running really rough and then it will clear up. Is it possible to of gotten some bad gas if so what products are out there to clear that up. Could've been injector going bad what are the best products for cleaning injectors. No check engine light on, gauges are good, nothing different on the scan gauge.
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This has me puzzled to no end. After my son had put fuel in my truck it began to run rough, and had to be towed home, and now won't start. Now the first thing I thought was that he put regular gas in. But he was sure he had not ,and the receipt from the pump indicates diesel. It was hard starting before this happened.
1st Misfortune of having gas put in instead of diesel and did your vehicle run afterwards.
2nd Here are my readings from my scangage:
Sync Yes/1, Ficm main power 48.5 v, ICV .17 (2.01 when cranking). ICP 1572. IPR 50.7.
Checked upper fuel filter for bubbles, none.
Engine oil pressure comes up immediately on cranking.
Don't know what else to check, these readings look fine to me. Only the fuel is something I'm not 100% sure of. It does smell like diesel not gasoline.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
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2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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Finally, you can get EGT's with the Torque app!
I had to reinstall Torque on my new phone and EGT1 was in the predefined set of PID's for Ford. Launch Torque, the go to Settings, Manage extra PIDs/Sensors, Menu, Add perdifined set, select "Ford (Incl PowerStroke)". I believe it's getting data from EGT11 that is between the turbo and the DOC.
I included a graph that shows the truck running empty at 50-55 MPH, ambient air temp. ~50F and the EGT's are around 430F, at 60-65. They are 480-500F. If one of guys/gals with the Edge Insight/H&S/other tuner would be kind enough to confirm those numbers are correct.
This was on a 2 lane highway following a couple of old rock haulers, then I passed 'em.
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Strange thing happened yesterday and again today. I have my compressor hooked up to up fitter #3 ,turned it on yesterday to fill the tank back up to 120psi. Before it filled up i shut the truck off to fuel up..but the compressor kept running for a few seconds after the truck was off. and today doing some running around the compressor turned on out of the blue when i was driving..but the switch was off.
The shut off switch (on the compressor itself) turns it on at around 90psi and shuts off at 120, but the thing filled my tank to 180 before i noticed it was on, pulled over to shut the truck off and again it ran for 10-15 seconds after the truck was off. I'm pretty confused. maybe it has something to do with the build up of snow under the truck, we just got 16" two days ago. but still when the up fitter is off shouldn't that cut the power from the accessory hooked up to it?
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
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Well, I've read a lot of threads on this problem! Try to do my own repairs, so I'm learning and not spending a lot of cash at repair shops.I have an 04 6.0 Super Duty Crew. Starting running rough on way home. Pulled over ,then it died.wouldn't start. Had towed home. Replaced ficm circuit board. No start. Replaced Harness,
icp...... ipr Sensors. Still no start. I noticed there is another circuit board inside ficm. Should I have bought the whole ficm unit?
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I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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