So I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do? They are also pulsing a little.
View 14 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesJust replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesIf I am going over 40 mph and I have to brake hard my truck pulls really hard to the right. I mean so hard it will take me off the road. My truck is a 2004 f250 with 147,000 miles.
In the last six months I have replaced both hubs, rotors and brakes. I really drive like an old man so I don't know how long I have had this issue. Just someone pulled in front of me on the freeway and I had to brake hard and I found this out.
I have checked both front capilers and brake lines and those are fine. I have brand new tires on it. I really have no clue what is going on. I have pulled the brakes off three times and checked everything out and it looks good. If slowly push the brakes everything is great, it is only when I have to really slam on them.
2003 f350 6.0 psd
Long story short, 7 out of 10 times when I turn on my headlights (while driving) my ABS light will flash, all gauges will drop to zero then instantly resume their place, lights are on and everything seems to be normal..
Recently it seems that when ever what I just explained above happens, and I press the brake pedal shortly after the truck pulls to the right. Harder I press the brakes the harder it pulls the truck off the road. Pretty scary stuff..
Brakes look good. Although I haven't checked the fluid or for any real notable leaks.
My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 F350 4x4 diesel. When I brake it pulls to the right momentarily then straightens out almost immediately. I've heard that this can be caused by bad ball joints, but I just had all four replaced less than a 15,000 miles ago, and I keep them greased regularly(every oil change). The rotors are a bit warped, but would that cause only a momentary pull? Other than that the brakes are good. I'm sure that the shocks are due for replacement. Tire wear/pressure is good. I had an alignment when the ball joints were replaced.
View 5 RepliesI put on a new set of tires (X Radial) at Sams Club with installation plan which includes balancing. I also brought the car to the dealer to have alignment (front I guess) done. The car goes a straight line no matter what except it always pulls left if I release the steering wheel when I brake from a high speed.
View 7 Replies02-F150-4.2L-102k. Truck was rolling down the road at approx. 35 to 40 mph. A speed bump/table appeared out of nowhere and was hit before beeing seen. Immediately since this event, the truck pulls to the left while applying the brakes. It pulls very hard and is fine while rolling down the road. Is there some damaged steering component or did one of the calipers go out from the jolt?
View 4 RepliesCould my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
View 6 RepliesWhat besides a 4" exhaust can I do to lower EGT? When I tow with my tow tune the EGT gets high on long steep pulls. Would like to be able to use it with the tune because there is more power and it pulls nicer, but I want to lower my EGT. I have a 4" flo pro system coming. What else can I do? Would a new intercooler make much of a difference? Already have an S&B cold intake and Banks Hi Ram.
View 14 RepliesWell, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
I have a 1997 Ram 1500 when I apply the brakes the truck pulls to the left for a spit second then goes straight.
Example: doing about 40 MPH take hands off the wheel and slam on the brakes, truck pulls immediately to left, like I did a quick lane change then goes straight.
About a month ago I replaced a section of brake line going to left rear wheel.
While engine braking on long down hill runs I notice about 3-4 lbs of boost when I exceed 3K RPM. Why would I have any boost? Should I be concerned? It's been that way for as long as I can remember.
View 10 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesOk so my left front wheel hub (from what it sounds like) might be on its way out. Upon braking there is a "thunk" that sounds like its coming from said wheel hub and I can feel it in the floor. Also when turning sharply at low speed in (either in 2h 4h 4l) and then braking there is also a lovely grinding noise coming from again what sounds like the wheel hub area. So without tearing open the wheel hub what can I do to actually properly diagnose without taking it to a shop.
Also, lets a assume its the wheel hub and associated parts, what all do i need to buy parts and tools wise in addition to the wheel hub itself. I've seen 2 or 3 trucks so far this winter with shattered hubs.
Quick observation: with the exhaust brake switch off, I notice it appears that the exhaust brake is still working automatically when you are in Tow/Haul mode and apply the brakes coming down a hill.
I notice the engine drone and turbo boost gauge rise...although neither the drone nor the boost are as noticeable as when the switch is turned on.
I know the 2011-2014 had "auto exhaust brake only" but it appears some of that functionality is still built in.
Another question: what is the consequence of turning the exhaust brake on and leaving it on for normal driving? Is mpg affected? Engine output? Engine wear?
My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
View 5 RepliesFirst post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.