Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Interior Smells Like Mildew When Defroster Turned On
Nov 4, 2016
For the past several months I have been noticing a mildew smell in my truck. Today it seems much more noticeable than ever. I have no leaks that I know of. Back in the first part of the summer we had very heavy rains and flooding here and I was in the middle of it, stuck in my truck overnight due to flooding. During that time I never noticed any leaks.
A couple of months ago I saw that there was about a half inch of water in the bottom of my glove compartment. (It's dry today.) I didn't find any wet spots in the carpet underneath. I thought maybe that some AC condensation had gotten in there somehow.
This morning as I was leaving for work, the smell was very noticeable and when I turned on the defroster I could definitely smell it coming out of the vents. What could be the cause?
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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Oil temp sensor - when I turn the truck on - it goes right to half way. I am guessing it is broken ? But then again, if it was broken, why would it go half way ?
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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Drove 40 miles took half hour then back in the truck and drove to lunch. When I got out of the truck you could smell burning. Opened the hood but there was nothing to see. Coolant level in the plastic hold tank good checked oil level, okay. No sign of smoke but the smell was real. Went in had lunch and came out and nothing. no smell nothing. Drove fifty miles home and nothing every thing working perfect and no smell. Oil temp. 197 to 203 all the way home.
Only thing that was done on truck was last Tuesday Ford did oil change.
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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A few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
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I've had my Edge CTS for two years and never noticed it turning itself off last summer.
This year, if the windows on the truck are rolled up and the interior is hot, The Edge displays a Red Error code and shuts down. 5-6 miles down the road as the truck has cooled off, The monitor will turn back on. I just don't remember that ever happening last summer, And I'm sure it got as hot as this year.
CTS turning itself off because of interior temps?
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Here in the last week or so I have noticed what seems like loss of power in my 04 F250. When I get on the gas it doesn't seems to respond like it used to. When I turn off the truck i can smell diesel a little bit. could it just be a clogged injector, bad plugs or what?
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2003 CC 4x4 ... I am pretty sure I know what is going on, but I wanted to start a thread for when I confirm it. I am driving to work this AM and I hear the door ajar chime and I think to myself, uh oh...gauges all look good, there are no lights illuminated on the dash. I get to work and turn the truck off and my fan stays on. I think the ignition module is going bad. Either that, or my remote start is going on the fritz. I will update when I find out more.
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2004 Crewcab Lariat longbed 4wd. My interior and cargo lights stay on. I got in the other day and opened the truck to start it and when I closed the door the lights stayed on. I did a search and tried the following:
Lubed all the doors
Pulled door switches apart to verify operation
Disconnected the remote keyless entry module
Disconnected the instrument panel
Disconnected light switch
I found the following:
When I alarm the factory alarm with remote the alarm chirps once with doors closed, twice with them open. Looks like door switches are working.
Disconnected light switch. Lights stayed on
Disconnected Keyless entry module, lights stayed on
If I disconnect the instrument panel I can hear a relay switch. That tells me the relay isn't stuck. The lights do turn off at this point and will go off when I pull the fuse for the instrument panel.
Door switches all seem to work fine as eveidenced by factory alarm operation and the door opening indicator turns off.
Not sure where else to look and my Google Fu is not very strong today as I could not find anything like this issue.Is there another module that could be bad?
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Where I can find a wiring diagram of the inside and outside lights on the 6.0s? I'm trying to wire up my running boars lights to my dome lights and tail lights but don't know the colors or locations of the wires. The tail lights wouldn't be as hard to find as the dome lights, what is the location and color of both.
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Tried to remove my rear interior light assembly up on the headliner but just couldn't figure it out. I can pry the clear lens off pretty easy but I want to remove the whole assembly from the headliner so I can put some sound deadner behind it because ever since I upgraded my sound system it rattles like crazy and is driving me nuts. I know guys have dropped the whole headliner to dynamat or sound proof it so someone's gotta know.
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
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With my 2003 PSD 6.0L, I would lock all doors with interior lock button and lock driver's door with the key. Can I do the same with my 2015 PSD 6.7 L or is there another easier/simpler way?
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With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
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I have a 2003 6.0 powerstroke I was pulling into a gas station when it shut off like you turned the key off. The dash lights work power windows, door locks , radio, headlights, everything works except the fuel pump and the starter. I have a juice with attitude on it as well and it won't light up when you turn the key on. I have checked all fuses and relays. The fuseable link tested ok.
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On my 2011 the gauges would cycle when I turned the key on... My 2014 doesn't... Is there something wrong or has Ford changed the sequence? ...
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