Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Hard To Start / No Power At All
May 17, 2017
I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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Earlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
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If I am going over 40 mph and I have to brake hard my truck pulls really hard to the right. I mean so hard it will take me off the road. My truck is a 2004 f250 with 147,000 miles.
In the last six months I have replaced both hubs, rotors and brakes. I really drive like an old man so I don't know how long I have had this issue. Just someone pulled in front of me on the freeway and I had to brake hard and I found this out.
I have checked both front capilers and brake lines and those are fine. I have brand new tires on it. I really have no clue what is going on. I have pulled the brakes off three times and checked everything out and it looks good. If slowly push the brakes everything is great, it is only when I have to really slam on them.
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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On Saturday I drove my truck 450 miles, all of it towing, in hilly New England. The turbo boost gauge was operating at 20psi or higher for many of the hills, and the 13mpg average was indicative of how hard the truck was working (normally empty I will get 20+). The next day, I drove it about 3 miles and it started a regen. Why? Wouldn't it have been passively regenerating for most of those miles? A steady 75mph for hours at a time?
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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The first has I replaced my tranny with a stock 4r100 tranny and torque that only has 75k on it. The guy was doing a 6-speed swap. After I had the tranny and torque converter and a new tranny cooler installed, the tranny shifts real hard. I think it may be from my DP Tuner. Even on my economy tune driving it very easy sometimes, it jolts into gear pretty good.
I was wondering if I could just get a shift kit to maybe correct that and if so if I would have to drop the tranny to install the shift kit. I saw a bully dog kit for like 75 bucks, however, I don't really have the money to have the truck in a shop and I would really like to not drop the tranny and not lose all my tranny fluid if possible (very expensive).
Also my other issue, the truck in warm or cold weather is very hard to start. Half of the time it takes two tries to start it. It will crank and crank and no go. Then the second try it fires right up. It has two new batteries, where do I start? Is it possible that the starter is just getting old or is it fuel or oil pressure related possibly?
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Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
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I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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Just replaced injector 4, oil cooler and did egr delete. Ficm is at 48 and truck will not kick over. New batteries installed.
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Ok I have this issue that I noticed on my new 2011. May sound weird but the wipers come on when I start the truck every time. Not sure if this is normal but I thought maybe I was bumping the lever thing but it does it anyway. I don't like that doing it cause of snow laying on the windshield in the morning will be a pain.
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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
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2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
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So my 06 6.0 4x4 is just about to break 200,000km and I've done most of the upgrades and work myself. (All the updates are in my Sig). My problem is that when I'm cruising and the engine is at full operating temp, if Im bellow 80-100km/h nothing but as soon as I break into that speed range about 2000rpm the truck will start to shudder. Almost feels like its not firing properly is the best way to describe it. Why this could be happening or causing it?
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Today the truck struggled to start after filling up, even harder the next time, and now it's in my driveway dead and I have a job at work that requires me to go to Michigan next week that I can't afford to lose. On to the issue...
When cranking, my icp won't go above 400psi now, and I understand I need Atleast 500 to fire off. I'm mechanically inclined but new to diesels, so don't be afraid to dumb it down...can't be cocky when your learning. Where should I start my troubleshooting?
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I bought my 04 6.0 from my parents a few years back and had it gone through as soon as I bought it. I got it studded, a new hpop, new oil cooler, 8 new Alliant injectors, and an sct livewire. A few months later my oil temp kept getting high and eventually it caused an injector to go out. Took it back to the guy who originally did the work and he warrantied it.
He said the oil cooler got clogged up on the coolant side. Replaced an injector and the oil cooler and it ran for another couple months before doing the same thing again. Had the oil cooler and injector replaced again and it ran fine until the number 7 injector went out and I had to replace it myself since the guy who was doing the work on my truck decided to pack up his shop and leave basically overnight.
When I got under the valve cover I noticed that the number 7 injector pigtail was different colors than the other injectors so I'm not sure what kind of work had been done to it after all, if he'd been mixing injectors or what, all I know is what he told me he had done. The truck currently has 157k on it. whenever I go to start it my injection oil pressure spikes to anywhere from 1600-1800 and the truck attempts to run but then the truck falls on it's face and the injection pressure will not get above 350-400 for about 10 to 20 seconds of cranking.
Then the oil pressure hand on my dash moves and the injection pressure goes up again and the truck cranks. After the truck is running it has a miss that most of the time goes away as the truck warms up. Im starting to believe that maybe the hoop is going out again but I'm unsure. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic so the huei injection system isn't my forte, but I do have access to just about any tool needed.
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2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
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My f250 was parked this winter to get work done. I had put a new exhaust on and while crawling on the engine bay it had kicked the fuel reset by the passengers kick panel. After pressing that button the truck would not start and threw FICM codes. (Power low to FICM) and my Scanguageii had said that power was very low (27 volts) during cranking. I sent the FICM to FICMrepair.com. Today I had put the FICM back into the truck and went to start it. I cycled the plugs 3 times and started on the 4th. The truck did not start after this and had thrown more ficm codes. What it could be?
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Had to do the icp sensor originally. went in from the top and discovered my oil cooler was failing too. so i did that. with weather (too tall to fit in the garage) and life getting in the way it's taking me 2 months a little here n there to actually get it done so she's sat for a while. yesterday was moment of truth to get it started again. the batts were old before i started working on it. so i replaced those yesterday.
I've tried and tried to get it to start and it won't turn over. it did for one tenth of a second try. nothing since. I saw that my shifter wasn't exactly in park so i wiggled it and tried to crank it again and now it won't even crank. I have a feeling somehow the transmission isn't reading in park or neutral so it's refusing to crank. I really don't want to tow it.
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