I was driving to a job this morning with my truck loaded with tile for a job and it just died.
It has power to the lights, radio, etc. But when I try to start it it does not even crank and it has no fuel pressure on the gauge and the pump is no running.
It is as if the truck has no power. When it died is was like I turned the key off and it just stopped.
My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
View 14 RepliesSo, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
So I went to start my 2006 this morning and it would not crank at all. Like the battery was dead ( all the light in the cab and headlights were working fine. ) so I tried to jump it and still nothing no clicks not crank no nothing. Just for fun I went ahead and jumped the starter (using the same method as when I prime the hpo system) starter cranked no problem so I put the key in the on position and cranked the key again still nothing. So I put the key in the on position again and jumped the starter truck fired right up. So I went back in the cab and tried to start it with the key and it started right up like nothing ever was wrong. What was causing this? Also my voltage was at 11.5 with the key on and engine off when it was running the volts were at 12 to 12.5
View 5 Replies05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
View 8 Replies2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
Had to do the icp sensor originally. went in from the top and discovered my oil cooler was failing too. so i did that. with weather (too tall to fit in the garage) and life getting in the way it's taking me 2 months a little here n there to actually get it done so she's sat for a while. yesterday was moment of truth to get it started again. the batts were old before i started working on it. so i replaced those yesterday.
I've tried and tried to get it to start and it won't turn over. it did for one tenth of a second try. nothing since. I saw that my shifter wasn't exactly in park so i wiggled it and tried to crank it again and now it won't even crank. I have a feeling somehow the transmission isn't reading in park or neutral so it's refusing to crank. I really don't want to tow it.
So the truck wont start, no crank no nothing all lights work etc. I am getting the icp code. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at?my icp voltage is .22 volts with the koeoff. While trying to crank it I get no change in voltage. My ipr is at 14.8 and the ficim is at 47. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing...
View 8 RepliesI drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
View 9 RepliesI have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
View 10 RepliesHad extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
View 9 Repliesno change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
View 14 RepliesLuckily I was sitting in the driveway. Pulled the truck out of the garage. It started fine, idled fine, did not make as much noise as I was expecting but was warmer in the garage than outside. Stopped in front of the garage door to grab a couple things in the garage, jumped back in and it quit before I could get it in gear and roll out. Weird. This is the first time I've ever had to get a tow.
View 14 RepliesDriving to work out of town and low fuel pressure came on screen.... fuel filters??
View 14 RepliesI just installed my fuel pressure gauge, only to find out that I'm running with low fuel pressure at wot. My filters have a little over 2000 miles on them and I've had the blue spring installed for a while now. It drops to about 36psi from 61 or 62psi. What could be the culprit? Also I'm running the out of the box street tune that comes with the sct x4 because I get about 15mpg with it.
View 11 RepliesLast night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.
So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
View 5 Repliestruck runs fine changed fuel filters could it be bad sensor .no cold weather
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