Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Cannot Spin The Tires
Nov 8, 2011
I'm not trying to sound like some dumb kid here but it really bothers me that my truck can't spin the tires. I don't go around beating on this thing, but when my friend's 95 jeep cherokee with a bone stock I-6 can roast his tires off, its kind of embarrassing that my 570 ft lb diesel cant even get a chirp on wet ground. I do have a limited slip rear axle, but shouldn't I still be able to spin them at least a little?
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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Now first let me start off by saying the trucks is running great great mileage still tons of power no problems, however I have one small complaint it seems since the first oil change with Mobil 1 about five thousand miles , as I'm driving the audible rattle and turbo spin up sound is quite prevalent? It's getting to the point that on certain job site young guys are asking me when did I delete the EGR and whether I used a banks open exhaust system?? what the hell is a banks ?? I have a very good friend with a 2014 that so quiet you can't even hear it.
Will this be normal that it will continue to get louder , I honestly put off buying a diesel for this exact reason I didn't want to listen to a tractor chugging down the road I hear enough of that on my farm with my 3 cylinder tractors. Why are the 14 models so quiet what's so different about the 15 and up?? I know they said it has a larger turbo but it can't just be that ?? and is there anything I can do to quiet it down?? I know I am old, but even I can hear that rattle its getting old fast like me...
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2005 Excursion 6.0 with normal bullet proof mods... towing 6000# dual axle enclosed race car trailer.
I've been towing this same package since 2008 all over the eastern half of the US and averaging right around 10MPG.... hand calculated from fill up to fill up. Sometime a bit more on a flat run to Daytona, or a bit less through the mountains... but very close to 10 MPG.
Well the factory trailer tires finally wore out and I replaced them with 8 ply Maxxis M8008 trailer tires...... highly recommended by the camper crowd.
Since then, I've been round trip Baltimore to Pittsburg, and Baltimore to Daytona (total of 2500 miles) and I've been averaging a bit over 12 MPG consistently..... again hand calculated. Same package, same highway speeds.... nothing has changed in my towing style.
Seems almost to good to be true. At this rate the tires will almost pay for themselves by the time they are worn out. Any trailer tires make such a difference ?
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Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
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I just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
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I do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I got a 04 f150 5.4 and ive ran into trouble and im not sure whats the problem. So im up in the snow right now and every time i start to go threw some thick snow my tires start to spin out and my truck shuts off on me. It only does that when i really give it some gas and my tires are spinning. Could it be the throttle body?
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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I just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
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OK getting these 2 codes PO113 and PO4DA What now have 17,000 miles and a long weekend. Truck has no power barley moves. Can't get it to a dealer till tuesday.
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2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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I have a friend who is a mechanic for Yellowstone park and he drives a 6.7l for his shop truck that has a utility box on the back with a welder And tools and other stuff, and he claims that the 6.7 has no power whatsoever. He said it does good in 1st and 2nd gear but when u get to the top end it is a serious dog. The trucks he is driving are fleet vehicles and im not sure what the difference is between the fleet ones and privately owned ones if any? What kind of experience with you while pulling? Do they seem underpowered In the top end?
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape 3.0V6 with high miles. A while back the transmission on this vehicle went out while at work. I got the bright idea that I would tow it home with a dolly until the funds were available to make the repairs. We pushed it up onto the dolly and secured it. I also put it in park. It took me about a 1/4 mile to figure out what was with all the resistance (my first thought was "Dang, that sucker is a lot heavier than i thought"). I pulled over, put it in neutral then proceeded without any more problems. A junkyard tranny was put in it. Rides and drives fine. There is a whining noise that is very distinct and gets worse with increased speeds. It sounds like it is coming from the rear end. No noise while stopped.
I have checked everywhere i can reach to see if anything is hot... (thoughts were maybe a bearing) nothing found.
Fluid is full in rear end.
I just drove it and figured it would get worse or get better.
Now that winter is almost over I am very confident that the 4x4 is not working. It does not matter if you are in Auto or 4x4 only the front tires spin.
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1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
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