Can a bad or lazy VGT solenoid cause a P132B code? I just recently had the turbo cleaned and the VGT solenoid replaced about 3 months ago. The truck is a bit sluggish at take off. Is there anyway to check the solenoid to see if its bad?
View 14 RepliesDriving back from Baseball tonight, I stepped on the throttle truck was sluggish and a huge black trail out the exhaust. On and off the throttle a few times and no more smoke.
Checked codes when we got home and had p132b. I had this a month ago, replaced the map sensor and no issues. So am I looking at a turbo cleaning? Besides the unison ring, is there a seal and bearing kit? I am at 205k at this point and as far as I know the turbo is untouched.
After replacing the HPOP a month or so ago, the bellows decided to let lose on the y-pipe. Which started my Turbo hunting and a P132b code.
This past week my 15 yr old and I replaced the up pipes with a BD Diesel kit. Which after my son redid his part of the job 4 times, we had it licked and running awesome with no codes and zero turbo hunting.
Fast forward to Sunday night coming home from my sisters 30 miles away. I jump on it to pass a slow moving vehicle or 3 and BOOOM! Lots of hissing and no boost on the gauge! Yep we didn't tighten that HAC clamp at the turbo enough.
Get the boot and clamp back on and head to the local parts store slowly to borrow a ratchet and socket. All we could muster from the state trooper was a pair of pliers.
Check the codes after we tighten the clamp and had a P132b. Cleared it and drove it home 25 minutes away and no code but the turbo is hunting. 85% down to 14%. So I reload the stock tune, double check all the clamps on the up pipe kit and pull the battery cables and turn the headlight switch to on. I go inside for an hour or so and go back out and hook up the cables.
I check the codes and the usual P603 is there. I clear it, start the truck let it run 10 mins and then take it for a ride. Pull up to a stop and the turbo goes into hunt mode! Drive it about a half hour and stop. Check codes and find the normal RGR code since I am deleted and the recurring P132b. I clear those and drive back home 35 minutes. I check the codes and nothing not even the P132B but the damn turbo is hunting again!
I check the wiring, and turbo connections and nothing! No leaks, errors or drips. I reload my custom tune and drive it. It hunts less but is still hunting! I am at a lose here! I had it running fine for 2 days. No issues until that clamp let the boot slip!
I have researched this online and it seems everyone leans towards a custom tune after this upgrade? It ran like a raped ape before the old stock turbo took a crap!
View 2 RepliesThese are two codes I have gotten in the past but my programmer has no description & it is not in a list of codes that I have either.
View 3 RepliesI'm almost (1600 miles to go) home from my 8000 miles or so summer trip. More on that after I get home. Right now I'm curious about something that happened twice in the last two days.
Towing down steep grades in tow haul, truck downshifted and RPM went up but I don't think it passed 4000 and it didn't seem any higher RPM than many other downshifts. But, wrench lit up and truck threw an over rev code.
I just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
View 3 RepliesI just had my thermostats replaced in my 6.4, and I'm concerned about the regent process. I read that when the P0128 code is thrown, truck will not go into regen. Is this true? How can I manually start the regen process?
View 1 RepliesThis morning I went to go to the corner to buy something, I knew it was colder than usual, -12F. I did not plug in the pre-heater last night. I let the truck idle for 15 minutes before moving it. It was still idling high. The P0087 code is the only code popping- is this just because of the cold temp? I haven't owned a diesel since my '79 Rabbitt, and this engine is as different from that as night is day. this didn't happen yesterday but it only got down to -2F and warmed up to about 18F.
View 6 RepliesP0237 code. The truck is a 2003 f250 with an edge evo . The truck will run great then throws this code and won't build boost of over 11 psi. Now it even drops it right off to 0. I replaced the map sensor a month ago and doesn't seem to have fixed anything.
View 2 RepliesSo the truck wont start, no crank no nothing all lights work etc. I am getting the icp code. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at?my icp voltage is .22 volts with the koeoff. While trying to crank it I get no change in voltage. My ipr is at 14.8 and the ficim is at 47. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing...
View 8 RepliesSo a few day ago my truck shut down while driving. I posted up and checked the ficm harness as suggested. Things were a bit lose so I zip tied my harness around the ficm. Thought it was all fixed and test drove it and it shut down again. I tried to start it a few times and my ICP was a tad low about 450 ,I have a brand new ICP and harness. Checked my scan gauge and I have code p2614. I cleared the codes and the truck started right up. I need to get this sorted out I was supposed bro go home tomorrow from working out of town all week about 100 miles from home...
View 3 RepliesEarlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
So I have been fighting an electrical issue off and on since I bought the Excursion and I am at my wits end!
Put in 2 injectors. 1 in November and 1 last week. Thinking that it would fix my P0603 and the missing issue I was having. Plus the truck tossed a code for #4 and #5 injector. According to a snap on scanner and my AE the injectors were bad. The missing issues are gone, but I keep getting a p0603.
Go back to the middle of May. Truck died and refused to start. I put a fuel pump in it due to lack of fuel at one point thru the no starts. Shop had it 2 weeks and replaced the Cam sensor. Truck has been spot on for the last month zero issues.
Fast forward to today! Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. Check codes before hand and have a P132b code. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Clear code, tune the truck and head out for the weekend. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to.
Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. During the 2 hour drive I monitored a few pids on the scan gauge to see how things were on the truck after the work. The following are driving down the road at 2k RPMS 70 MPH give or take 5 MPH.
boost 7.3
map 22.9
EOT 225
FWT 211
TFT 163
CPM .28
ICV 1.9
VGT 57
IPR 37.3
CVI 4-5 (fluctuates)
SYNCH went to 0 when it died.
Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My buddy the KAM P0603 and a new one Crankshaft sensor Pos A/ I can not remember what the code # was.
So after dropping 1500.00 on the truck the last 2 months, I am at a loss. The shop I took it to was a new place for me and I was not impressed. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all.
The 2 options I have are 45 miles away or 100 miles away. After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Where are the known chaffing points on the 03' 6.0L.
I have a 2009 6.4L F250 with 153k miles on it. Yesterday I drove from downtown Dallas north to McKinney (about 40 miles) and truck was running fine. Left approx. 3 hours later for dinner and the check engine light came on and truck ran very sluggish with hardly any power. Had it checked at auto zone today and got the P040D Exhaust Gas Recirculation temperature A circuit high DTC. I can get the part but not sure if I can replace it myself.
View 2 RepliesI have experienced a hesitation on my truck since I purchased it 6 months ago. I get a one to two second hesitation at take off from a stop. I have checked the back pressure tube and the one that goes to the turbo controller no problems. I have a Edge CTS programmer that only shows ... for EBP.
View 13 RepliesI'm taking my new to me 2011 KR 6.7 I've had it 1 week, to the dealer tomorrow to get them to look at the hesitation on takeoff. I have read on here that not all trucks are doing it. There is 25500 miles on it and have been averaging 15.3 mpg empty, is this about normal for what people are seeing? I'm running the 3.31 gear ad I thought I would get better mpg. This truck was built in Feb. of 2011 would it have the 400/800 settings or would it have to be flashed?
View 14 RepliesSo loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
View 14 RepliesSo I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
View 10 RepliesWhen i take off in morning truck will change from low to 2nd and hesitate for a second and then go on ok. was sitting at light the other day an went to take off an mashed dn on fuel pedal an it just sit there an then took off, dont no whats going on.:-
View 9 Replies06 250 w 65k and it is sluggish on take off, and puffs black smoke most of the time. other than that it runs good.
View 14 Replies