Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
View 2 RepliesFriends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
View 7 RepliesI'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
View 14 RepliesWent out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
View 4 Replies It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
Been having an odd problem with getting my truck to start. Pass couple of days I've gotten out from work and gone to start the truck. It cranks just fine but wont start, acts like there is no gas. Let it for a minute or two and try again and it will start right up and keep running with no other problems. Go to leave for the work the next day and the same issue. Weird thing is the problem only seems to happen when its cold out 30F so or below. I was thinking fuel pump but I'm not sure. What to check?
Edit Its a 2002 Excursion XLT with the gas 5.4
Got up yesterday and the truck would start. Turns over just fine, but won't fire. Checked codes and got p0403, p0404, and p0405; all egr related issues.
I'm going to pull the egr and clean it, but my question is, would these codes cause a no start? I haven't had any issues with performance that I read are normally happening when people get these codes. Just wondering if I may have another issue along with the egr problems.
2004, DWR, 4x4, 6.0 PSD. One day he started the truck moved it 100' shut it off and the next day it would crank over but not fire. It will fire and run rough if you give it a shot of starting fluid. It shows codes P0401, P0275,P0528, P132B.
View 14 RepliesI have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesThe car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
View 24 RepliesMy 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
I bought a 99F350 with a 7.3, it was not running when I bought it. Batteries good, new starter, turns over just fine, fuel pump works, but now I don't know what to look for.
Was testing ohms for my injectors and at the plug on top of the driver side valve cover, couldn't get a reading at all, tested the ohms at the pass. Side valve cover plug and got good ohm readings.
Truck is a e99 f250sd 4x4 7.3 manual trans. The truck started and ran fine to work this morning. Went to leave this afternoon. Hopped in, put key in and tried to start it. Engine just turned over, never started. Thought that it didn't start because I didn't let the plow plugs warm up enough. Turned ignition off, turned back on and let wait to start light to go out. Same thing happened again. Just turned over but wouldn't start. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is running. Felt it vibrating while the ignition was on. What to check.
View 14 RepliesThis past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesLike usual, i have a problem that no one else has and it sounds like its something electrical/sensor/PCM related.
Every few mornings, ill go out to my truck and go to fire it up...and it'll just crank away. After i give up on cranking and shut the key off, go to try again, it fires up instantly, like nothing is wrong. Sometimes in the morning itll just have an extended crank but eventually start. Regardless...it always starts. Sometimes it cranks really strong the entire time, sometimes the crank gets weaker the longer you crank...i don't think its HPO related, but i definitely could be wrong.
Ficm voltage looks good KOEO, cranking and running. I had my batteries tested at ford a few weeks ago and they "said" they were good (motorcraft 850ccas). Alternator is strong. When cranking, ive seen the voltage drop anywhere from 10.2 to 9.4v. I never know when this is going to happen and i can't hook up AE every morning and sit and wait, but based on my scangauge, i see ICP shoot up to over 1500 as soon as it fires.
Only code I've gotten is P0148, which is fuel delivery error/engine speed higher than expected. I've gone ahead and replaced my camshaft position sensor with a ford sensor a few days ago...it hasn't done a no-start yet, but it did do an extended crank. I think my next stop is PCM replacement...
New alternator, fairly new batteries....after sitting 5 days or more, it cranks but no start.....put on charger for four hours, it fires right up...
Voltage on the multimeter shows 12.45 on both batteries......could there be something drawing down the amps? If so how do I find it?
I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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