Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Sluggish When Stepped On Throttle - Huge Black Trail Out The Exhaust - P132b
Aug 30, 2015
Driving back from Baseball tonight, I stepped on the throttle truck was sluggish and a huge black trail out the exhaust. On and off the throttle a few times and no more smoke.
Checked codes when we got home and had p132b. I had this a month ago, replaced the map sensor and no issues. So am I looking at a turbo cleaning? Besides the unison ring, is there a seal and bearing kit? I am at 205k at this point and as far as I know the turbo is untouched.
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Can a bad or lazy VGT solenoid cause a P132B code? I just recently had the turbo cleaned and the VGT solenoid replaced about 3 months ago. The truck is a bit sluggish at take off. Is there anyway to check the solenoid to see if its bad?
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So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
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I have a 2003 Superduty with 193k miles that is bone stock. I sold the truck to a friend and when he decided to not pay the remaining balance on the truck, I took back ownership. The truck was having heating issues and it set at a mechanic shop for nearly 2 years waiting for a diagnosis on the heating issue. Fast forward to the present and I now have the truck at my home. Heating issue was the radiator but this is no longer a concern. When I went to pick up the truck from the mechanic, the truck started fine. Every other day for the last 4-5 weeks I would start the truck with no problems.
I get the truck tagged and start driving it on a daily basis. I've put several hundred miles on it but the more I drive it, the less it wants to start. Now it's to a point where it only cranks but won't start. I can take a gas rag and hold it in the intake and eventually it will start. Once it's running, it runs great and has no issues starting. But once it sets for 3-4 hours, it won't start without some sort of assistance.
While trying to find the issue, I've found and repaired 2 fuel leaks and in the process I replaced fuel filter, air filter, replaced glow plug relay, replaced batteries, replaced CPS. Fuel pump is working fine. I've tried the ICP test and doesn't make a difference.
The glow plug light or WTS light works so don't think its the GP. The CES light was on. Had it scanned and it was the air bag sensor so no support from the CES.
While I was working on it yesterday and after cranking on it for 5-10 minutes, it would act like it was going to start and black smoke would be coming out from the exhaust. I let it set to cool the starter it fired up like it had no issues.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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I have a 03 6.0. I just had all the injectors changed a new fuel pump, spring in the regulator and fuel filters ouch. The truck runs great but I get a puff of black smoke if I get on the throttle going down the road it seem to clear up as soon as the turbo spools up. I that ok or do I need to take it back to the dealer?
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2007 F-350 6.0L, Wife phoned and said that the truck backfired a couple of times and there was black smoke from exhaust. When she stopped at idle there is now alot of white smoke but coolant level looks fine. She has about 200 km's to go before she is home pulling a 20 foot horse trailer with 1 horse.
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I have researched this online and it seems everyone leans towards a custom tune after this upgrade? It ran like a raped ape before the old stock turbo took a crap!
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These are two codes I have gotten in the past but my programmer has no description & it is not in a list of codes that I have either.
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6.0. 115,000 miles. Everything stock, except bully dog intake filter.
I replaced the FICM recently, with one that I bought from the guy who makes those cool You Tube videos, Diesel Tech Ron. I also replaced the EGR valve. I also replaced the intercooler boots on the hot side. I cleaned the intercooler pipes. I cleaned the intake filter as well. I'm still blowing out black smoke, if I floor it when I need to pass someone.
Follow up question: I bought those boots from Riff Raff Diesel and I bought new clamps, too. I'm not sure if I installed correctly. It's already blown one off (it blew the top of the intercooler pipe off, by the turbo, but the boot stays on the turbo) and I put it back on and tightened it all the way down, and I've had to re-adjust 2 times, now, since it acts like it still wants to slip off. Do I simply have the other ones misaligned???
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After replacing the HPOP a month or so ago, the bellows decided to let lose on the y-pipe. Which started my Turbo hunting and a P132b code.
This past week my 15 yr old and I replaced the up pipes with a BD Diesel kit. Which after my son redid his part of the job 4 times, we had it licked and running awesome with no codes and zero turbo hunting.
Fast forward to Sunday night coming home from my sisters 30 miles away. I jump on it to pass a slow moving vehicle or 3 and BOOOM! Lots of hissing and no boost on the gauge! Yep we didn't tighten that HAC clamp at the turbo enough.
Get the boot and clamp back on and head to the local parts store slowly to borrow a ratchet and socket. All we could muster from the state trooper was a pair of pliers.
Check the codes after we tighten the clamp and had a P132b. Cleared it and drove it home 25 minutes away and no code but the turbo is hunting. 85% down to 14%. So I reload the stock tune, double check all the clamps on the up pipe kit and pull the battery cables and turn the headlight switch to on. I go inside for an hour or so and go back out and hook up the cables.
I check the codes and the usual P603 is there. I clear it, start the truck let it run 10 mins and then take it for a ride. Pull up to a stop and the turbo goes into hunt mode! Drive it about a half hour and stop. Check codes and find the normal RGR code since I am deleted and the recurring P132b. I clear those and drive back home 35 minutes. I check the codes and nothing not even the P132B but the damn turbo is hunting again!
I check the wiring, and turbo connections and nothing! No leaks, errors or drips. I reload my custom tune and drive it. It hunts less but is still hunting! I am at a lose here! I had it running fine for 2 days. No issues until that clamp let the boot slip!
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
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Got to thinking today while my truck was warming up, why does the exhaust smell so bad. I think it is kinda interesting that the exhaust pipe is so clean also, like new matter of fact.
So what make the exhaust smell? The exhaust filter traps the partials right but where did the diesel smell go? I can understand it when in regen but in normal operation I don't get it. I guess I just don't the mechanics behind it. All I do know is that, what is left just stinks especially when warming up.
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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Recently I have been smelling exhaust fumes in the cab of my truck when at a stoplight or parked in the driveway. When driving, the smell tends to go away. This occurs with the windows up and the climate control on auto. I can also smell this when I shut down the truck and exit. I am looking for anything that may be causing this. Hoping not to have to take it to the dealer.
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Today I drove to dinner in my 2012 6.7 with no problems then on the way home my brother said he noticed my truck was white smoking quite a bit and he said there was a very strong exhaust smell coming from my truck ( he was in his car behind me) I ran a diagnostic test and what came up was code P0401 (I believe that's right). Need to figure out what is going on with my truck before I take it to the mechanics and get charged up. The truck still has DPFs in it just has a DPF back exhaust and has a AFE cold air intake running on a stock tune. However I do have the DPF deletes and EGR delete sitting in my garage just haven't gotten them on the truck yet.
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When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
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7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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