Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Trim Around The Windshield Coming Off
Apr 24, 2015
The black rubber trim around the windshield is coming off on the top of the windshield. Vibrating away at an extremely annoying tone.
Been that way for a while just a small section, I'd just super glue it down and it would hold for a 1000 miles or so, then I would just do it again until it came off about 1/2 way across. At that point I just used Gaffers tape across the whole top - looks okay dark area of the truck and Dark red paint makes it so you cant notice the black tape at a glance. now that its getting hotter that's not holding but for 500 miles, which is about a week for me and gets annoying to have to stop on the fwy to fix it.
So its time to fix it right, but how?
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Drove the truck to the store tonight about 5 minutes away and everything seemed fine. Went to leave the parking lot and noticed the check engine light was on. Pulled out my tablet, dongle and fired up Torque Pro. Retrieved error code P0170. Truck has a little over 12,700 miles and is complete stock. I ran a search and didn't come up with much info on this code other than what Just Stroken posted in another post.
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Looking for more information about this code?
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0 diesel crew cab. The outside door trim that runs about a 1/4 way up from the bottom off the door is falling off. I was wondering what was the best way to re-attach them.
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I have a 2004 Super Duty with a 6.0 diesel. Recently the windshield washer seems to have lost some of it's spray power. It still sprays, just not very hard. I know it's not frozen, as it started this before it got cold.
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I've had my F350 SD for 6months now(21,000 mi) and have seen probably 20 times when I insert the key and turn the switch on the windshield wiper's will make one swipe when NOT turned on. Also have seen several times when starting the truck the radio comes on and it was not on when I turned the truck off. Yesterday when I finished work and was heading home I started the truck and the wipers came up about 1/3 of the way and stopped. I can't seem to duplicate the problem so I have not scheduled it in as of yet.
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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Had a lot of snow in the North East last week. Tried to use the remote start three times without any luck. Cleaned off the windshield and it worked. At best the remote is a weak system with very little range. How to use it or make it work better?
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I was out for a short drive this evening and got on it just a little bit to hear that wonderful 6.0 sound and all of a sudden coolant started spraying up on the windshield like I was spraying it from the windshield wipers! My first thought was oh crap I've got a blown head gasket and it puking from my degas bottle. I had a short drive to the house so I eased it on home. My ECT got to 226 with the fan roaring but not cooling it down, luckily it never got over 226. When I got home I opened the hood expecting to see where a bunch of coolant had puked from the degas but instead I saw this. What could cause the radiator to rupture like that? I did spend a good amount of time on my knees on top of the radiator while changing out my oil cooler the first time, then again when I installed my BPD oil cooler. Also I posted in another thread a few days ago about my ECT temps being a little higher than normal, reckon my radiator was clogged and that caused the higher temps and the rupture?
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Looking for a video or directions as to how I replace a windshield wiper motor on a 2006 SD?
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6.7L ... Just traded in my F250 on a 2011 F350 Lariat. Love it. Period. Except that my windshield wiper sprayers will not work. I don't hear anything when I hit the button. No click or motor running. I can't figure out what fuse it is because I don't have an owners manual.
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getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
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Looking for an electrical schematic and or wiring diagram of the windshield wiper circuit for a 06' Super Duty?
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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I just looked back and it has been since July 7th that my girl has been sitting in my shop. Well this past weekend I finally got her back together and started. It took a while to build pressure but she finally came to life..
While I am thrilled that she is running again i have low power before the boost kicks in and is idling rough with a blueish- white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Once i kick her a little she will get up and go but I've never had the smoke before.
I'm thinking maybe a bad injector???
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My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
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I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
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After installing the Sinister Diesel EGR Cooler, a new stock turbo, new EGR valve, and new #7 and #8 injectors, I am still getting the P0401 code. Each of those items needed to be replaced, by the way.
The motor runs fine; it just continues to throw the code. It has been to the dealer, and they can't figure it out. Is there a diagnostic procedure I can follow to hunt this elusive problem down?
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When I bought the truck it had some crap tires on it and the deal was that they had to put tires on it for me. I just picked it up and notice that I have a vibration at 40mph it then goes away by 45 then it comes back at 60 then gone by 65. The vibration feels like it is come from the rear.
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So for the first time in a while I started my truck when it was cold outside, 33 degrees according to the truck. It didn't do this at initial startup but when i started driving there was what i think steam coming from the exhaust because it dissipated fairly fast. It steamed slightly until i went to pull out of my neighborhood and got on it to get up to speed which was only 45mph. The oil temp was in the 90s at that point but when i got on the pedal the truck just started pouring white steam out of the exhaust.
Over time the truck warmed up and the steam stopped and everything was fine. Even when its warm outside the truck blows something when its not at operating temp but when its warm I can only see it at night when there's headlights behind me. Since I've had the truck the only thing that I've had to replace was the radiator because it was leaking coolant and even after that i still smell burning coolant occasionally and sometimes when i check my tank its low and then sometimes it never changes. Its very inconsistent.
The only other bad thing that's happened to the truck happened after i got my oil changed for the first and last time at NTB. They replaced the filter when they changed the oil but didn't pull the old gasket off when they put the new filter on and long story short i lost about a gallon within 30 minutes because of that and had my truck towed home. My engine light never came on or anything. I fixed the problem, added new oil and that was it. The reason I bring up the radiator, the coolant, and the oil is because i don't know if that could have anything to do with the steam.
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Well, my water separator light has been coming on and going off for the past week. Today, I finally thought about it while drinking a beer, and decided I'd pull the plug to see what I can catch.
As you can see from the pictures, this brownish color crap comes flowing out, followed by clean fuel. What it is? I've drained the separator in the past, but never have I seen this come out.
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