I have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 F350 4x4 dually (6.0 diesel obviously) automatic. It's got 200kml on it and a second motor (found the sticker on the valve cover). I just bought it a month ago and have only driven it like 100-150 miles. Previous owner imported it to Finland 3 years ago, but never registered and only drove it like 500-1000 miles (with temporary plates to carry his racer few times). Original owner was a company in Southern Midwest that had some equipment on back. (It's was sold as a chassis cab new.)
Now I was getting the truck tested for registration yesterday. Drove it there 30 miles (country roads and highways), no problems. Then we had to do the smog-test, which is a bitch. They rev the engine to limiter (4200rpm) couple of times and measure the particles flying out. Passed it flying colors, but when trying to pull out the transmission wont engage!
Shifter linkage ok. Oil in tranny clear and plenty. When I put on R or D the engine RMP rises very slightly (maybe 50-100 rpm) and then settles back. But nothing else happens.
Luckily got a friend with large flatbed that we used to carry my baby home. But now I don't know where to start... ...well, I do have couple of ideas what could be broken. Specially if there's something simpler than dropping the whole tranny out (it's HEAVY and it's cold&wet out there) and rebuilding the whole damn thing.
Previous owner told he had some shifting issues couple of years ago (maybe 500 miles ago) and they "rebuilt" the tranny. He DID replace the hydraulic "logic board" and solenoids + new packs while at it. Naturally new filter & oil too. He said the torque converter was "tested" to be in good condition and they used the old one. I can tell the tranny has been out of the truck and the seller felt legit (a car guy too).
Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
Long delay bringing new travel trailer home last week. Shift cable not placed properly in retainer during assembly (there is NO way it popped out) and it was resting on exhaust manifold. Evidently towing camper made enough heat to burn through the shielding and truck trans would not move out of drive.
The good news is that I could climb under (getting too old for that stuff!) and put it into gear/park by hand. But of course I didn't know that for the first 4 hours.
I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
View 12 RepliesBefore taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
So about a week ago I noticed that my 2006 6.0 with 240k miles smelled like antifreeze. I popped the hood and noticed my dega tank was empty. I added coolant to halfway between max and min. A couple days later discovered coolant had dropped to just below min fill. Went to start it this morning and the starter won't engage the flywheel. I hear the relay click and the starter is making a whirling noise. I figure I will try to manually crank it to check if it's the fly wheel. If it's not that I guess I will take the starter to get tested. And if that's not it.. I guess a mechanic.
View 1 RepliesI got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didn't have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines, harness, pump, sending unit , tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to the garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they won't work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they won't touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So i go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it won't budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now.
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
I have a 2003 f250 and I am unable to rotate the hubs from automatic. I have removed them and while I had them apart, I was still unable to rotate the selector. It wouldn't turn even with a crescent wrench putting pressure on it. I repacked them with grease and reinstalled and they still work when in 4 wheel drive. I am just concerned that when the vacuum does go out, I will not get the hubs to manually lock in.
View 10 RepliesLast night I noticed oil on my driveway. I got up under my truck and it was dripping at the trans. I'm not sure that's where it's actually leaking from because the other side of the oil pan had clean oil on the outside of it. What this could be?
View 13 RepliesI was spraying undercoating yesterday and noticed a trans leak, it looks like its coming from the top of the trans. Not a lot of fluid just enough to coat the trans on top. I tried using an inspection mirror but i still cant see the leak.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
I fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
My folding mirror on the drivers side folds out good but when bringing it back there is a clicking sound and it doesn't move, a slight pull on it and it comes back ok. 2011 F350 SD.
View 7 RepliesBought this truck (06 F250 cclb diesel) earlier this year and (as far as the seat is concerned) worked perfectly until about 2 weeks or so ago, when I learned that the passenger power seat works in every direction except for to move the seat back. Since every one that got in the truck didn't believe me and now the seat is almost at the glove box I finally decided I should do something about it. I have removed the fuse and let is sit with the the fuse out for about an hour, no change. I had read on another fourm that if you recline the seat back a few times it resets the module, attempted with no change. It is to the point I need to get into a bit more serious diagnostic processes however I am unsure exactly where to start.
View 2 RepliesWhen i take off in morning truck will change from low to 2nd and hesitate for a second and then go on ok. was sitting at light the other day an went to take off an mashed dn on fuel pedal an it just sit there an then took off, dont no whats going on.:-
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-250 Powerstroke. At times when stopping at light or for any reason, I give it gas but it does not want to go. It's like it is not even registering that I am pushing the pedal. I shift it into neutral and rev it up then switch it back to drive and it goes and puffs out smoke. What is going on?
View 6 Replies2003 F350 6.0 cc 4x4 with 291k... Not sure if I have a problem or not, it happened at a signal light: The light turned green, I pressed the throttle and started to move. As I pressed more, there was no response. Second later it took off and I have had no more problem. What the cause maybe?
View 1 Replies