Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Tranny Temp Same As Coolant?
Jul 5, 2015
This is the only 6.0 I have owned. My tranny temp (with the Torque Pro) is pretty much always the same as my ECT. My ECT will move, and less than 2 seconds later, the tranny will move to the same temp. Is this normal? I was expecting lower tranny temps, but maybe it should be the same because of sharing the radiator.
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I have a 12 cc 4x4 drw. I hauled a bull and a cow about 100 miles this morning. I was pullling approx 6k including the trailer. The temp was about 75*. 50-60 miles into the trip I switched to the oil temp screen and the oil temp was 224* and the trannie was 199*. I was going into the wind which was about 20 mph, and I was traveling 75mph. The truck never lugged down heck it never shifted out of 6th gear. When I unloaded the cattle the temp came back down around 190*. Headed home and the temp got up to 226* and the tranni went to 205*. This was going with the wind and just the trailer. I am using oem 10w-30 motorcraft and motorcraft filters. The truck just has 9k miles on it. I am thinking that the oil temp is a little warm, should I be worried. What should I look for to diagnose. I like to do my own diagnosing if I can, the dealers around me can't find anything wrong even if you point the leak out to them. Should I be using a different oil?
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
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I've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?
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The truck has been just terrific, mostly used for towing our travel trailer. Earlier this year i developed a leak and lost 3 quarts of oil before I caught it. I would think with 15 quarts in her this shouldn't have been too big a deal. However, I am now experiencing 10-15 degree swings between ECT and EOT. Before I give the particulars, yes, I have had three new thermostats, two Ford and one brand X.
Anyway, coolant temps are 184-200 depending upon load, terrain, etc. At the same time, oil temps run 205-230. There is no oil cooler to get plugged up. She's got 120K on the clock, doesn't burn oil, no disappearing coolant. I am concerned about blowing a head gasket or other serious damage at these temps, but don't have a clue where to start? Yes, the fan does come on, but still this seems plenty hot.
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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I have an 04 F350 and I was wondering if the fan is supposed to be locked up when the A/C is on. In max A/C with the fan on 3 it's barely keeping cool in the 95 degree heat we have been having. If I rev the engine I don't hear the fan noise like I do when the coolant temp hits 218 and the fan roars. Freon was replaced several months ago, along with receiver/dryer and orifice tube when I did the HG's. The A/C shop drew a vacume and did not find any leaks.
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What the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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I'm at 5,500 miles and the last couple of mornings I've had my tranny slip and lunge between gears, sometimes 2nd and 3rd and once out of 1st. I know there's an update/flash that needs to be done but my build date says not required. My truck was finished April of 2012. I'm going to call the stealer but I'm sure they will "check it out" and say nothing's wrong so it would pin point this issue.
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Took my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
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2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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2006 long bed with LS diff sometimes gets a fairly robust CLUNK! sound and feel when decelerating with tow mode engaged. It only happens once per 20 trips and only about a mile down the road, and it only happens once in a blue moon. It definitely is the rear end making the noise and brief shudder. Otherwise the truck runs extremely well.
I had the pumpkin off and fluid changed with Ford friction modifier added at about 100,000 miles. Truck is at 160,000 now. I just got done with a trip in the mountains of Idaho carrying a truck camper and used tow/haul mode extensively for engine braking and climbing, worked like a champ. This was just one trip of many this summer. This is about the only thing wrong that happens on my truck, but usually occurs before I get very far from the house. Should I just forget about it?
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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