Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Tachometer Went Below Zero When Got Off The Highway And Came To A Stop Light
Jan 5, 2006
2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
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My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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I have ran 05 f250 and the wrench light keeps coming on mostly when I'm doing highway driving or when I go to pass someone. iv putt code readers on it(autoparts store readers and the good expensive ones)and i keep getting bad egr and some other codes but when I have the truck looked at everything is prefect I had a flush done on the truck and and it still comes on randomly . Could the fact that it needs an oil change cause the light to come on intermittently or is something else going on??
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2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
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I've got an '04 6.0 that's recently developed an engine performance issue and I was hoping to get some leads on what to chase down this weekend. The truck has 75,000 miles on it and has been trouble-free since new when it comes to the motor. Recently I've noticed that, usually at a stop light, the idle will occasionally get very rough and the normal diesel "clatter" noise becomes rather rough sounding- almost like every other "clatter" disappears if that makes any sense. Up until last night this was happening very infrequently and usually only for a couple of seconds. I wasn't really sure what the issue was then and would rev the truck in neutral and the issue would go away. This has happened a handful of times in the last month or so.
I drive a company car all week and the truck only gets used in the evenings and on the weekends, and last night my wife and I drove it to dinner. The truck cranked and started normally and was operating smoothly until we got out of our neighborhood (about a mile of driving), then the rough running condition described above surfaced and continued throughout the 7 or 8 mile drive. This was the first time that it ran like this for more than a few seconds. The truck was running bad enough that you could feel the misfire or 'chugging' at speed. When the truck would shift into overdrive and the torque converter went into full lock-up, you could really feel this as the engine was lugging. I tried to keep the truck out of overdrive because it was shaking the truck pretty badly. When we came out of the restaurant I thought maybe the issue would be gone but it did it all the way home as well. Throughout both drives the Check Engine Light did not come on.
When I got home I got my DiabloSport Predator because I remembered it has a code scanner in it. I have never checked for codes before so I do not know if these are fresh codes, but there is a P0282 Cyl 8 Injector Circuit Low and a P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete in there.
While I was in the driveway with the engine idling badly for a few minutes, the issue completely went away and the truck smoothed out for a few minutes. It was like someone flipped a switch and the truck instantly ran properly. After a couple of minutes however, the issue instantly returned. I tried to clear the codes with the Predator but they will not go away. I am not sure how solid of a scan tool the Predator is????
I did a lot of searching on here last night because this is bugging me, and the symptoms I saw on here about the ICP sensor make total sense based on what I am experiencing. People were describing to a 'T' what I am experiencing. However, I do not have an ICP sensor code and when I searched for the P0282 that I do have I read about FICM issues here.
The rundown on the truck- '04 F-250 CC 4x4, truck was bought 10-03 and I THINK I remember the build date as 9/03 (maybe 8/03). Automatic transmission, DiabloSport Predator with 60hp tune, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, everything else stock. Oil was changed about 4,000 miles ago, both fuel filters done about 2,500 miles ago.
A few questions:
Could the ICP be my issue even though there is no code for it? Could the P0282 be coming from an ICP issue?
I've read about early '04 trucks having '03 motors and something about an updated harness for the ICP- could I get more info?
Is my truck part of the affected group with the wire-chafing I read a little about? If so, could that be causing this and what should I look for?
Does the P0282 immediately point to a FICM issue?
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My 05 has Glowshift gauges on the window pillar. All are analog except the digital fuel pressure gauge. It almost always reads 102 and that can't be right. Sometimes when idling at a stop light it might go down to 95 for a few seconds. Maybe wire grounding out from sensor?
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Turbo def needed rebuilt, unison ring was worn out. Ton of carbon build up also. Was leaking oil too. Rebuilt it, good to go now.
Egr cooler wasn't leaking and was plugged on the one end. Got the IPR kit installed, nice kit. Re sealed the oil cooler at the same time. CCV re route done.
Here is the kicker. It still SMOKES!!! Only when leaving a stop light. There was quite a bit of oil in the turbo piping. I cleaned that all out. Could it still be oil in the intercooler and it just needs times to get blown out? Or??? I did a power balance test, cylinder contribution test, injector kill test, and etc all passed.
Maybe hook the boat up pull a 6% grade and get all that blown out?
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Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.
This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).
Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.
There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.
Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):
Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error
Added today but not captured during these issues yet:
IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250 Powerstroke. At times when stopping at light or for any reason, I give it gas but it does not want to go. It's like it is not even registering that I am pushing the pedal. I shift it into neutral and rev it up then switch it back to drive and it goes and puffs out smoke. What is going on?
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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I was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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This morning I noticed when I started the truck had a rough idle shaking truck. The truck felt weak. Boost would go up but truck felt like it was in sand. While coasting on the highway at 50-55mph the truck not only lags in power but vibrates viciously until the overdrive kicks in that vibrations in cab and ssteering wheel go away.. What might be going on?
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
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Any clue as to why when im sitting at idle or at very very low rate of speed my A/C seems to work like a charm, but if i am traveling down the highway or basically anything above 40mph it seems to die down, like doesn't even keep me that cool..
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My truck wanders all over the road especially on the highway. The stealership said everything on the front end looked good and tight. I just recently had the front end aligned by an alignment shop, but the wandering still occurs. Is my last resort to try and tighten/adjust the steering box? I have owned and driven bigger lifted trucks before and they were no where near as bad. I realize this truck isn't meant to drive like a sports car, but it should at least drive in a straight line. I am at a loss and it is becoming very frustrating to drive most times.
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Truck died going 50 mph and would not restart. I turn the key to run and nothing. I can hear the injectors buzzing but it will not turn over or crank. I can jump from the battery and the truck will crank. However, it seems to be in limp mode. It will start off in 3rd gear and won't shift gear Tow/haul light is flashing.
The wire harness that goes down to the fan clutch is chewed up and frayed so I'm assuming that may have caused an issue. But i have unplugged the sensor to the fan clutch and it still won't start. I can hear the injectors buzzing but when I turn the key to crank it, it does nothing. Just clicks. I've cleared the codes and these keep coming back.
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Turbo is dead. I knew this day was coming. It died driving down the highway tonight at 55 MPH. Plenty of power since I left the office, all of a sudden the tone of the engine changed to a 6.0L and there was no power at my disposal.
Nursed it home keeping an eye on EGT's and let it soak while I ate supper.
Started it up, let it idle for a minute and tried a few revs but no boost and no turbo whistle.
Garage actually had a very slight haze to it after the test revs so something is broken.
DPF shouldn't be allowing any type of smoke to pass.
Bummer. Now I need a rental so I can get to the airport. Murphy's law has been in effect all day between software upgrades (IT stuff) and now my truck.
No CEL (this is shocking to me) but I found : P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
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