Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Surge Or Revving When Getting Up To Cruising Speed
Jul 5, 2016
I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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I've been trying to track down a lack of power with my 7.3 for a few months now. I've had the truck for 8 years and there's just something off with it lately. When warm under a light load, such as accelerating while cruising at 40mph or going up a light hill at 30mph+, around 1100 to 1400rpm, there's just a distinct lack of power.
The engine starts lugging and the injector or valve noise increases dramatically until I push the throttle down far enough (60%+) for the transmission to downshift. Once it downshifts the engine sounds normal and takes off like it should.
At higher RPMs, it's seems to run okay, but it feels a bit down on power there. Otherwise, it starts great, idles pretty well with a slight miss, and no smoke that I've been able to see.
When it's dead cold in the morning, it seems to run better than any other time of the day.
I don't have any trouble codes other than a disconnected EPBV. One morning I did get P1670 when the engine nearly died when coming to a stop. I'm chalking that one up as a fluke due to a broken valve cover harness connector tab.
The truck has 170k miles and is mostly stock: AFE intake, 4" exhaust, and no muffler. It has an old Edge Evo programmer (yeah, yeah) that I removed a while back. I going to put it back on so I can monitor my EGTs.
The ICP, IPR%, and boost are all within spec. Buzz test sounds fine. CCT says #8 is bad with the grey CPS. Here's a datalog of a full throttle 70mph run.
[URL] ......
Recently I've decided to fix known problems:
HPOP line leak to the driver side bank
All Injector O-rings (black diesel in fuel bowl, suspicious oil consumption)
Replaced leaking intercooler couplers
EBP tube clogged, causing 0 boost sporadically, bypassed it by teeing into MAP sensor hose.
Various cam position sensors: grey (B), new dark blue (C)
Replaced leaking ICP sensor with generic sensor 6 months ago and unfortunately can't find original to test with. 2900psi without a tune seems a bit high, but reads consistently otherwise.
New fuel pump
Added service port to fuel bowl and measured 60-64psi at idle
Some things I have left to try:
Measure fuel pressure under load
Try out a parts store CPS I forgot I had.
Ziptie/secure broken valve cover harness connectors
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I Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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I started having an issue with a rough idle soon after startup about a month ago. I thought it might have been stiction so I added some Archoil stuff the other day to my oil interval change and although I have not put too many miles on it, the rough idle is still there.
At startup the engine runs great. I did notice a few times a little longer than normal crank (~3 seconds) where other times it fires up in less than 1 second. This has happened twice in the last month. Once the engine runs for about a minute I get an uneven idle......I wouldnt necessarily call it a miss per say. I took some readings for the ICP and IPR and can provide them if someone needs them. Once the truck warms up it seems to idle better but still not 100%. I have no power loss, no hesitations jut a weird idle with intermittent surging while in gear.
The truck is starting to surge a bit like an ICP sensor going bad but not as pronounced as the last time this happened to me 4 years ago. Basically trying to get opinions as to what it might be or what to check next. I am leaning toward one of three things.....stiction, ICP or IPR valve (original). FICM voltage is good but my fuel pressure gauge broke, but the blue spring upgrade I did.
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My 2003 6.0 has started to surge at idle after driving for awhile. Like when I drive to work (30 min) and pull off the interstate the idle will bounce around at the stop sign (only jumping like ~100rpm). Does this sound like the ICP to you? I've replaced it once before and am wondering if it's time to do it again?
Also the truck will sometime be hard to start. And when I say hard to start I mean turn the key, let the GP cycle the turn to start and it just cranks. But as soon as I turn the key back off and cycle the plugs again it'll fire right up. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. It's been doing it since I got the truck. It seemed to get better after the 1st ICP but didn't completely get fixed.
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Still chasing a surge for some time while cold, mainly. While hot and cruising 65 mph the turbo still surges faintly.. but today was a different story, very fast and high surging from the turbo only, while on overdrive as usual. It calmed down as i dropped the boost a bit but it was quick swings of about 3-5 psi which is quite bad for what it had been doing which was manageable.
Short of taking off the turbo, I took out the VGT solenoid and it had some oil burnt on the end, cleaned that up and pushed the plunger in all the way a few times and it 'seemed' to have worked greatly, until today.
I pulled some other numbers;
KOEO
Map 13.7
EBP 14.1
Baro 28.2
Cold Idle
Map 14.0
EBP 16.5
Baro 28.2
When cold, mainly below 130F the RPM gauge itself will surge or hesitate around 1700-2000 RPM. Any higher or lower it will be smoother I suppose....
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I've got a slight surge that's very noticeable cold and not so much after warmed, I can hear the turbo surging and feel a slight power increase on and off, checked with forscan the normal values, alls inline, I did not ck fuel pressure yet but will, I noticed vgt, boost fluctuates when this happens, icp ipr readings inline, this is a 04 with throttle plate inside the air elbow area, can this cause a surge and how to test this, I am not familiar with this setup as my 05 does not have it.
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OK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
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So I'm having a problem with my truck revving up out of no where. Happens more when I'm driving. It only shoots up a little bit but sometimes goes up 1000 more rmps. Happens for a quick second then stops and does it again. I've had the ckp replaced and it has an egr delete. Other than that it's stock. I got home and let it idle for a minute. The rpms fluttered up and down in small increments and almost stalled out. What is causing this?
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Experienced a weird transmission issue this weekend. Started truck up first thing in the morning, only a short warm up, it was about 50*F. Drove about 200 yards to the gate. Stopped with foot on brake while wife got out to open gate.
Felt truck lunge/surge a little. Thought that was weird. Then it did at again, but more like a double surge, jumping in and out of gear.
Rolled forward through gate then stopped again with foot on brake. It did it again. But this time I noticed the gear indicator in the dash jump. It was shifting from 1st, to 5th, down to 3rd, then back to 1st.
I pulled out my phone and was able to catch video of it doing it a few more times. Start about 16 seconds into video. Transmission Ghosts?
About 1:20 in I drive forward and it shifts to 2nd fine. I stop again at 2:00 in.... and it does it again around 2:30. Then it also flashed a "Check brake system" and "Service AdvanceTrac" message for half a second (around 2:44 in video).
After catching video, I drove the remaining 1/2 mile driveway to the county road and stopped again. It didn't do it any more. It did however flash a traction control off/on message for about half a second. Didn't catch that on video though.
Drove 12 miles to town to Ford dealer. Service Dept was closed (Saturday). It didn't do the shifting again for the rest of the weekend. Made the drive home Monday (140 miles) without a problem.
Dropping it off tomorrow morning at 7AM so they can try to fix it. They hope it stored some codes even though it never gave me a wrench light or other trouble light that stayed on. Hopefully it's a just a software glitch or a faulty sensor.
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.
If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.
I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.
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I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
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