Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Strong Coolant Smell Happens When Accelerating Up To Freeway Speeds Or Passing Cars
Feb 17, 2012
Why I am smelling coolant? I have a 2004 6.0 SD.It generally happens when accelerating up to freeway speeds or passing cars, Medium to hard acceleration and the smell is strong and will go away after a few min. The obvious thing is to check for a leak but I haven’t seen any.
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One of the great things I liked about the new 6.7L engine was the lack of any diesel smell. While the tips of the exhaust pipes remain clean at 64,000+ miles, no soot, my truck now has a strong smell of diesel after each use. The truck is running strong but I can't figure out why this is happening.
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We've had a run of -20 to -40 weather here for the past few weeks.
A few weeks back I noticed that when I climbed into my truck after command-start warm up for 10 minutes, and I could smell strong exhaust.
I figured it was hopefully the wind, or an isolated event.
Over the past few weeks I've used my truck for 3-4 more around town runs and every time I warm it up I get the strong exhaust smell. It's that rich, eye watering, sickening exhaust smell. I also notice a small yellow frozen puddle under the exhaust tips that wasn't there before.
It's bad in the cab, but even walking around outside the truck and the smell is sickening. I actually just started the truck and I could actually smell the exhaust smell faintly, from inside my house! This has never before occurred. Prior to this, a person could hardly tell it was a diesel by the smell of the exhaust.
Once the truck is up to temperature the smell seems to disappear, or at least lessen.
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I have been smelling fuel on and off for the last few weeks. I thought it was the fuel bowl drain valve so I ordered the kit for the whole fuel bowl from diesel o-rings. I did the rebuild this morning and I don't see any visual leaks. Still smell a strong odor of diesel though. The lower engine cradle is all wet and the valley is still a little wet too. Could I still have a leak and if so where to look? Could it be just wet still from draining the fuel bowl and needs time to go away?
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My delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
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I've been smelling coolant for a few weeks with no apparent leak. Walk out today, small puddle under truck. Coolant running/drip along seam of engine and trans right in front of downpipe on passenger side. Even with a mirror I can't see up far enough. Looking from top is impossible. What could be leaking up there? Turbo?
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Looking at an EGR delete in the very near future. Any problems passing emissions with a full delete?
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I have a 04, f-250, with a 6.0 liter engine. I have had the Cat removed and in the last couple months it has developed a sneeze like hesitation just before it down shifts to Passing gear, If I push my foot into the fuel it jumps right down thru the sneezing into passing gear. I have changed fuel filter and grade A cleaned my EGR valve. the only Codes it throws is P0403 and P0405.
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On cruise control, engine went dead immediately after passing gear kicked in. After 2 days on the side of the road got a pull to the house. Then after having a charger on it over night the electric seems to be messed up. Switched on, the dash lights light full strength for a fraction of a second before appearing as thought the battery is real low. Also the doorlocks act crazy. I think maybe I blew out the BB on the high oil pressure pump.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 XLT crew cab with just over 50,000 miles. A couple of weeks ago while heading to work I experienced a very violent Front end bounce while driving on the freeway. My Speed was around 55-70. I experienced this front end bounce on after hitting a patched portion of asphalt on the freeway. I lost complete control of my vehicle and had to slow down almost to a complete stop in order to regain control. When I got to work I checked my tires, wheels and under carriage. I found under abnormal. Well it happened again today. Again on my way to work I hit a bumpy stop in the road and experienced this "Death wobble" (youtube it). So I decided to take it to the dealer and have it looked at. On the way there it happened a couple more times.
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Just a quick question, my serpentine belt fell off while driving on the freeway today and wondering what are the possible causes for this too happen? First things that came too mind were tensioner or worn out belt. Hard to believe the belt would be worn out though as it only has 65k miles.
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I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
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2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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Not at the exhaust, but from the engine compartment. Have to open the windows at a stoplight. Can also smell it when I walk past the parked truck. What's up?
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no change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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