Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Straighten Bent Front Frame Horn?
May 1, 2016
Any DIY way to straighten a bent front frame horn? The wreck pushed the driver's side horn about an inch towards the passenger door. The bend is right at the cross member.
Using a Porta Power hydraulic jack to push one of these? Not sure how I'd keep it from just bending the opposite, but can prolly figure that out. Just don't know if those are strong enough. I see 4ton and 10 ten models.
Otherwise, are there any other hillbilly methods for pushing or pulling?
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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My 2001 F-150 Super Cab got the driver's door bashed in. It bent in the rocker panel and I'm working on that but the bad thing is that the bottom of the hinge post is bent inward about 1 inch (kicks the top of the door WAY out). If you draw a line from the top hinge through the bottom hinge it should be about vertical but this one obviously isn't. I bent it out some using a couple of come-alongs and then ran a 2x4 through the passenger door to the back side of the thing and hit it with a sledge hammer.
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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I have just purchased a 2010 FX4 5.4l on 5/4 and just found a leak coming from above the passenger side frame horn. It looks like it may be from the condensor but im not 100 percent certain. It is an odorless oil not condensate. It is a slow drip that i found after running the truck for a short time. the puddle it left was about the size of a bottom of a drinking glass.
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I had an accident with my 2007 Hyundai Azera 3.8 Limited at the driver's side a couple of weeks ago. The frame bent a little bit from the left side. Took it to bodyshop/mechanic and was straightened back.
The mechanic advised me to change the CV axle on the left side due to the CV boot coming off the axle. We bought a used CV axle from the junkyard and everything was fine until 2 days later when I made a wide left turn and I heard a cracking noise. Immediately, I pulled over and AGAIN the CV Boot from the CV axle has popped out of the axle again and up until now when i drive I hear a cracking noise when turning to the left. Even without checking the car again.
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My 06 F250 horn would not stop blowing after I beeped to pass a guy. Since I have a toggle switch for my factory/air horn, I flipped the switch to center to cut the horn off. While the truck is running if I engage either horn system it blows. But with the truck off and key out, I can engage either system and it works normally, the horn only blows if you depress the wheel pad. I can hear the relay working correctly, clicking and the horn blowing, but only with the ignition off.
What can cause the horn to blow steady only when the ignition is on? It seems to me the air bag switch is working if it activates correctly when ignition off? I've searched until I am blue, but don't find anything positive and I don't want to throw an airbag at it to find out 800 later the horn still blows. Also, is there a replaceable relay for the horn?
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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Coming up the mountains here in Ca last night. Snowing and slippery. Put truck in 4x4 light came in saying engaged. Driving very slowly and almost slid off road with two kids and wife in car. Then noticed that there was no front traction happening. Locked hubs manually and all was ok. I think this is a serious problem. If in auto and dash confirms 4x4 engaged then it should be. I am just very lucky to not have seriously hurt my family or someone else. Is this a recall on Fords part I truly think they need to be held accountable if so.
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Bought this truck back in September. I thought the ball joints were going out. So decided to replace everything i would think of. The ball joints, hub bearings, all the tie rod end parts, sway bar links & bushings, and the seals around front u-joints. Now i still have the same rattle. Sounds like a piece of metal rattling in a tube. Really it sounds like the ball joints are out, which i know they are not. Also i greased them again (Just to make sure) and no change.
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My new truck has developed a squeak in the front suspension every time you go over little dips and bumps in the road.Which is all the time.
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Is there an easy How To write up on how to remove the front grill? I want to install some grill inserts I picked up.
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Since I bought my F350 last Jan. I have several times had prolonged instances of a severe grinding noise coming from the front end, seemingly the left side. At slow speed in a turn (shallow or steep) a horrible grinding sound is apparent as well as a vibration in the steering wheel. At 9k miles a dealer said it was the wheel bearings and replaced both sides. I now have 12.5K and it is worse than ever. My local dealer says it is normal but that has to be bull. It is is worse after I drop my fiver after towing. It is a 4x2 with the 6.7 diesel. I love the performance but this front end issue is a real problem.
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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I have noticed my truck makes a front end noise when I make turns, like from a main road to a side street. What seems to cause it is if there is a little dip or bump during the turn. The noise it makes sounds almost like a tire rubbing a splash guard or something. It comes from the drivers side. It he truck is stock with stock tires and wheels and has 4300 mi on it. I was maybe going to take it to the dealer...
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I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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