Driving home from work last night my truck just died. I was under load, going up hill, and she just shut down. No power, completely dead.
She'll crank, but not start.
Ever hear of this?
I was driving from my house the other day when the engine suddenly cut out and the dash went blank. there was no warning, it was like someone pulled the plug.
-When I turn the key to the first position (Acc) all the accessories work as normal. the lights, radio, windows, ect all work like normal.
-When I turn the key to the second position (run) nothing changes. no gauges, no dash lights, warning lights, and no (wait to start) squiggly line. only thing I hear is the high pressure pump on the engine cycle.
In the third position (start) the truck will turn over but will not start.
03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
OK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
luckily about 5 minutes from home my trailer running lights AND the lights on my dump truck body stopped working. i assume they hooked the lights to my dump body to the trailer lights. i was towing an old trailer that has electrical issues so I'm sure that caused it. Under the hood there is a 30 amp fuse #26 that i think is the culprit. (All the other similar fuses are shiny and that one is kinda black). I've never bought fuses like this before, what type is it? it's a big square one. Are they available at auto zone? Does the whole thing pull out and do you need a special tool for it?
View 3 RepliesThe truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
View 14 Replies I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
Brother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
View 7 RepliesI have a 05 with 100K miles on it. I had the HPOP, FICM and EGR delete do about a year ago. Went to start the truck pressed the pedal and it died and won't start. It dies once while driving about a week ago but restarted. I have a Snap-on scanner for the data. FICM tested good and getting fuel to secondary filter. Batteries and filters are new with about 2K miles on them. Would this data point to a bad IPR?
ICP V KOEO = .25V
ICP V Cranking = .28V
ICP_DSRD 1251 PSI Cranking
IPR Duty 15% KOEO
IPR Duty Cranking 85%
I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
View 14 Replies2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
View 3 RepliesIhave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 RepliesMy 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Excursion with strange symptoms. It will start cold and when you drive it for a while, then turn it off, it will start again right away. If you leave it for an hour you will get a "crank no start". Leave it till the engine cools down completely and it will start again.
The other day it wouldn't start cold, but after I had it towed in to a mechanic, he turned the key and it started right away. I left it with him for 3 days and he could not get it to "not start". So I picked it up and drove it for an hour, parked it and left it for an hour came back and had a "crank no start" till it was cold again. I love my truck but it doesn't seem to like me.