Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Starts Then Won't Start When Warm Outside
Feb 11, 2016
Left on hunting trip last Thurs. Blew tire on trailer 6 miles from home. Shut off truck. Went to restart, cranks only. No codes. Towed home.
Thought it might be a fuel filter problem. Had just changed oil/filter and fuel filters prior to trip. Checked filters, upper bowl was low. Turned key to on and bowl filled up. Noticed filter wasn't snapped in lid. Also checked lower filter.
Drove it to work this am. Turned off truck and tried to restart to check. NO START-Cranks fine!!!
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I have a may 2003 6.0l f350 4x4 ,autoenginuity scanner, recently bought the truck starts fine and idles well then when engine get warm it starts to smoke unburnt fuel (white) volume of fuel desired on scanner goes from about 14 mm~3 to 27mm~3 and starts to run rough if you depress the acellerator the motor smooths out and the fuel desired goes down. No coolant smell. egr cooler removed ,oil cooler replaced, exhaust back pressure sensor and tube cleaned .ebp sensor koeo 14.2, eo 17 but jumped to 54.0 when map was at 17, bp 31.20 .... The AE is new to me Also found a superchip tuner under the back seat ...
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I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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I have a 03 350 with a 6.0 . The truck starts fine in the morning and runs great all day as long as you don't shut it off. It's not going to start until the morning. It will crank over fine, the fuel pump seems to be working, its like there is no power to the injectors. I don't have a wiring diagram so not sure which relays are for injectors. Could the ficm be causing it? Is there a site where I can download a fuel sys schematic ?
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My 04 6.0h started puffing bluish colored smoke typically only when I was accelerating. After a short amount of time I noticed it was smoking quite a bit when cold and until it had fully warmed up. I took it to the repair shop and they pulled it apart saying the turbo seal had failed and the turbo was full of oil. I purchased a new Garret PowerMax and had it put it in.
I picked up my truck and of course it was still smoking when cold. After it warmed up nothing, just like before. Since I just put a new turbo in I am worried this one will be ruined as well since the same condition exist. My mechanic said I need to run the truck for few days before the oil would get cleared out which had accumulated in the system. Am I mistaken in thinking that if it was residual oil burning that it would be more likely to do smoke when warm as opposed to when cold?
Since the turbo and seal have now been replaced what else should I look for to cure my blue smoke blues?
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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Well it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone.
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According to the scan gauge... I used to run about 195-200* all the time no matter what.
Now days i find myself up into the 220s and with my boat on ill see 235 climbing a hill.
Good deltas between the water/oil temps.
I wanna get back to my 200's.
I pressure washed out (on low) the front radiator and all the coolers, I didn't get much out and they didn't look dirty.
I am thinking water pump or plugged radiator?
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Say I just purchased an 06 f250 crew cab with the 6.0.
I had her trailered home due to dead batteries. I got her started up and drove about 5 miles until she got up to operating temp.
When I came to a stop and tried to accelerate, she immediately bogged down and started studdering with white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I shut her down and started her up again. She started and idled fine, but as soon as I pressed on the accelerator, she bogged and studdered again. I shut it down again and started it back up. Normal idle, and I shifted her into gear and was able to mozy on idling forward without having her bog, but as soon as I touch the accelerator, she bogs and studders.
I towed it home and the next day (today) she started just fine and I shifted her into drive and moved it forward about 10 feet. Did not touch the accelerator so she didn't big or studder.
1. I am guessing the white smoke was coolant burning through a failed EGR circuit. Do you seasoned members agree?
2. It the a check engine code when studdering. I have yet to check codes so I am still in diagnosis mode.
3. I plan to block off the EGR pipe and throw in a new oil cooler. Anything else immediate I should be considering??
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my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
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I just got this new truck with work and when I started in the mornings and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes like I used to with the 6.2 f250 I had it's still cold in the truck. Need making this thing warm up faster?
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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So after I've been driving for a while and stop at a light or drive thru, I will give it throttle and it seems like it wants to stall. Almost like the turbo isn't spooling and then does and all is good again. Is this a sticking turbo bearing or something else? I am not very familiar with this motor(although I have been doing a ton of searching on here) as I just got it about two weeks ago. I should mention that I am getting the 404 and 405 codes so not sure if that could be involved with the egr?
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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Just went on a trip to SC. It was hot as hell - 100F most of the trip. The a/c would blow cool (not exactly cold) for a while and then go luke warm (way better than outside but not particularly refreshing) for a while. So I was reasonably comfortable but definitely not cold.
This would happen about every 15-30min where I felt like the compressor had stopped working for a while. I am thinking the compressor is probably limping along and about to die. Usually I thought these things just up and die though. Clogged accumulator? IDK - nothing has been done to the a/c system since 2009 head gaskets.
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How can I tell if the turbo is going? it has a whirl noise after warm up. Boost seems a little slow and seem to have more noise coming from the air filter inlet. I put the Auto Enginuity on and have no codes.
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My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
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My truck is puffing smoke after about 10 minutes and warmed up (looks white). It happens only one time for about 30 seconds and looks light grey or whitish in color, definitely not black smoke. The truck runs just fine, starts great, doesn't hesitate or studder, doesn't loose any coolant, no signs of pukage. In other words, it Runs perfect.
By the time the smoke happens I am usually at an intersection and see this white smoke billow past me or see it in the pass. side mirror. it's too hard at the time to get out of the truck at that exact 10-15 seconds it smokes to smell it or see it's true color without my sunglasses on but it looks white or greyish. not convinced it's a blueish color.
The truck doesn't smoke at start up or run rough so I'm ruling out injectors. I think it might be the egr cooler that is still connected eventhough there is no hot gasses going through it. (Did the up pipe mod). I might have an egr valve that has a bad seal on it. I'll have to remove the egr valve and see if it looks gummy in there since the egr cooler still routes coolant.
The other thing it might be is a bad oil seal on the turbo which is burning off leaked oil after it's warmed up, again I don't see it smoke for the rest of the day.
The very first time I saw it smoke was the day after I did the up pipe mod and capped off the egr cooler. I may have had a small cooler leak before I did the up pipe mod and now the coolant (if it's coolant) can't run in the exhaust or burn off there directly. My SCT turns off the egr valve but the valve may have a bad seal in it along with a defective egr cooler. will remove the valve to inspect tomorrow if possible.
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