Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Started To Take Longer To Up Shift
Jul 22, 2016
So we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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Ac is no longer blowing cold air and was thinking about trying a can of ac pro on her. However, I have heard some pretty bad stories about people killing their compressors and overcharging the system. Is it not worth the risk.
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It's -15f today. I have been wanting to make a cold start video for a while. Today seemed like a great day to make one.
A little longer crank than when i plug it in, but I think it started pretty good.
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I turned the key and it started to crank and slowly started to whine down. Tried it a 2 more times and it did the same thing only with less strength and on the third try all I hear is the starter clicking. Both batteries read 12.57 on my multimeter while not cranking. Does this sound like an alternator? All my electronics seem to have plenty of power.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
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I have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
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I've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
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When I got my 2016 back at the end of last October, the pink coolant in the main degas bottle was just visible in the clear top half of the bottle. By the time 5k miles rolled around, the coolant was no longer visible in the clear section. At oil change time, the dealer "topped" it, resulting in it being visible in the tank again. 3k miles later, the coolant has disappeared below the clear part of the bottle again. What gives? The secondary bottle level has not budged. Its clearly not losing a lot, but it is definitely going down slightly.
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I have been having a problem with the fog lights on my 05 F-250 super duty truck. They won't come on when I'm parked but when I'm going down the road they'll come on and usually go right back off or will stay on for a min or longer but still sooner or later they go out. I think it's a shortage somewhere but I'm not sure on whether it's in the switch on the dash or somewhere in the wiring.
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Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
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I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
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Situation is I have 2016 F350 that when cold, seems to have shift problems between 5th and 6th gear, where the engine revs between the gear shift under light acceleration. Once warmed up, doesn't seem to do it, 4th to 5th might be a little slow or maybe just my imagination.
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I have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
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We are on vacation pulling the 5th wheel. On the last of the three days driving the transmission starting doing something I have never seen. When running about 60mph and starting up a grade, when I push the pedal and it should shift from OD down, it bucks really bad. It only does it under those conditions and only when towing. It does it when the tow/haul is on and tow haul is off. Also, in the afternoons on the last two da,ys the A/C has started to turn off. The fan still runs but the cooling cycles off. After a while it comes back and is ice cold but then cycles off again. It only seems to do this when the engine fan is running to cool off the engine under load. I have it scheduled at the local dealer for a transmission service and A/C check....
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A few months ago I couldn't get the shift lever out of park without trying multiple times. Then it was okay for about 5 months now it is back and worse. It is not bound up because of parking on a hill or anything like that and I press very hard on the brake pedal. It take s multiple times to get it out of park trying turning the key on and off and so on. The truck only has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission has always worked perfectly.
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