My 6.0 stalls out when under load above idle intermittently. When it stalls, if I release the gas pedal and tap it, it usually catches again but not always. ICP is strong and doesn't seem to waiver when it stalls. Engine runs much better when oil comes up to about 180. Oil / water temp spread about 5 degrees.
View 14 RepliesSo any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
I have a 2006 F350 Superduty hd 4x4 6.0 Diesel. When it begins to start pulling from a standstill, it will not build power to untrack the load. Once it gets going the turbo will build boost and pull fine. Checked Boots on tube from turbo to intercooler for possible leaks. Replaced tube from intercooler to intake. Made sure map sensor tube was clear of soot (none at all in there). Air Cleaner is in good shape. Im a little Frustrated.
View 7 RepliesI posted earlier about a whistle that appeared when I was towing my old travel trailer (6000 pounds). It only happened a couple of times, and I had a hard time replicating it, so I elected not to waste any money with the deductable, and possible additional costs for a non-covered issue at the stealership.
Now, I am towing a larger 5th wheel trailer (11000 pounds), and am experiencing this whistle on every steep grade, while towing. Below are a couple of things I noticed, that had to be, before I would get the whistle:
* It only seems to happen while the cooling fan is engaged, and also only when the rpms reached 2800 and above.
*If the fan was on, but the rpms were turning below 2800 rpms, then it would not whistle. It would, however, after the transmission downshifts, bringing the rpms back up, while climbing.
*If the engine was spinning at 2800 rpms, and the engine fan was not engaged, then it would not whistle, until the fan would kick in.
* It only seems to occur when I am climbing a steep grade, on a warm day. Although, I haven't experimented on steep grades on a cold day...
It sounds to me like there is an issue with the engine fan system, but I thought I would put it out there, just in case any of the diesel guru's out there might know of something else that would cause a whistle like this, i.e., turbo?
Oh by the way, I also think that I have a performance reduction lately. However, I can't know for sure, as I have never towed this much weight with my truck before. I just kind of expected that I would be able to pull to the top of these grades, with a little extra peddle to spare. I have to floor it, just to "try" and keep up with traffic. And I haven't calculated my fuel mileage while towing this beast yet, but WOW, that fuel gauge needle sure does drop like a rock!
After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
View 12 RepliesI ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 f 350 6.0, when under a heavy laod such as towing a 3000-pound trailer up a long hill at approx 60mph and 2000 rpm it intermittently mis fires.The boost gauge bounces up and down and i here a poping sound from the engine compartment.I have had it to several dealer and independent shops but with out the trailer or a heavy load it runs perfectly.They have told me fuel pressure is good and changed all fuel filters with OEM parts.
View 3 Replies2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
View 14 RepliesSo pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
View 10 RepliesWhile i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
View 11 RepliesIn the last 3 weeks I've replaced the oil cooler. IPR, ICP, fan clutch, intercooler, rebuilt the turbo, new elc coolant, egr valve, thermostat, new batteries, positive battery cable, and alternator and a host of other crap. Now I have a new problem.
When towing it overheats, almost instantly under load. I was towing a 9k trailer up a hill, a total of about a 30 second climb and it overheated (242 degrees). I'm thinking head gaskets at this point as they are stock and have the tty bolts installed.
Recently had a rear pinion leak and replaced the seal and nut. I jacked up the truck, took off wheels and felt the drag so I could duplicate once i had the new seal as I tightened the nut. I've done this only once before on my F150 years ago, but when I put the driveshaft back on and test drove it, i had shudder when not under load. So when I let off of the accelerator, it had shudder and more the faster I was going.
Obviously thinking this is a preload issue with the rear axle but would this be caused by tightening too much or too little. I had no issues before so I would think that the driveshaft itself is not the issue. I can't confirm that I got it bolted up in the exact same manner as before in relation to the flanges but still wouldn't think that to be the issue.
38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
2015 F350 CC LB FX4. I routinely haul 2-4k of cargo in the back of my truck for 375 mile jaunts.... I do this at least once a week. Most I've ever hauled in the bed was 5k and it rode better than it does with 2k in the bed.
The ride is awful and the bounciness and instability driving on uneven roads or corning at speed is starting to really annoy me. Would a set of good airbags cure this problem? Hit a pot hole while corning on the highway around 60-70mph and you better hang on... feels like the back end is going to jump off the ground.
On my last trip down it was so bad I actually pulled off the side of the highway to see if one of my rear springs was broken. And yes... the cargo is evenly distributed under my truck ARE canopy. E rated tires set at 80 PSI rear, 65 PSI front.
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
I've been having this problem for a while and seem not be able to get anywhere.. so at first my truck had a stalling when hot getting low icp which lead to a new hpop, couple injectors, dummy plugs, icp.
Ever since I got the new hpop, now when it gets to operating temps the low pressure gauge drops, and once you get on pedal it goes back up then eventually stalls. Then have to wait till cold.. the low pressure gauge will not drop till oil is warm. Does it sound like a low pressure pump?
It's a 2005 6.0 with 213,000
I have an 04 F350 automatic blowing fluid out under load only. Had it serviced the first time it happened two weeks ago. They found no issues and replaced the fluid and filters. Drove truck about fifty miles, no load, no problems. Took her out this morning in tow/haul mode with load and made it about 20 minutes before I noticed it warming up. Pulled over and it is blowing fluid out the right side of the pan.
View 6 RepliesIt's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesOkay so 2007 F350 DWR here, I have a driver who hauls loads using the truck and a 25' gooseneck trailer. She's gone through the bullet proofing process at 80K miles, she now has 128K miles. I have a programmer to monitor temps, and do all required maintenance.
With that said, my driver reported last week that when under load and going up hills he got the white spray coming out from under the hood. See pics below, this is never really good of course but I want to believe its not catastrophic. Two weeks prior I changed out the thermostat and upper radiator hose and of course flushed and filled coolant, all was good - no hoses were loose, etc. Driver reports the truck did not overheat at any time.
Both ECT and EOT are within 10-12 degrees of each other, and did not go over 190 for me while driving around town the other day. There are no codes present, I cleaned the engine bay and drove and re-inspected but can't tell where the coolant is coming from as none appears to be leaking. Last note, I have to admit after driving for a day or two I had to fill the degas bottle up about 3/4 gallon of water. My questions is, what is the next step for me in the diagnostic process?