Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Speedo Quit Working - Needle Dropped To Zero And Stayed There For At Least 5 Miles
Oct 26, 2015
So i had been up in the woods for better half of the day. I had been in 4wd a few times, didn't thrash on anything and while driving home about 30mins into the return trip on the pavement i noticed my speedo only showing 10mph. I know i was easily going 50mph. I changed my SGII gauge to show MPH and sure enough i was going way faster. Eventually the needled dropped to zero and stayed that way for at least 5 miles. Then I came to a stop to and made a right turn giving it a bit of throttle and the speedo began to work correctly and did so for the remaining 5 miles. the Odom also during that time wasn't adding mileage. could this be from the rear sensor ontop of the rear diff?
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I have GX470 2007 (100k miles) and last weekend I noticed that I drove 60 miles (on streets) and gas needle was down to 1/2 of tank. When I went to gas station to fill up, I was able to get only 5 gallons and tank was full. I drove another 45 miles (on the highway), and needle already was down to 3/4 of tank. I did not have this in the past. I was getting 12-14 miles / gallon on the street and 20 - 21 miles / gallon on the high way.
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I went on a 4oo mile trip the other day and kiddos were in the back playing games and powered up- Next thing I know the AC seems to not be working. It was pretty cool outside so I tested it a little and I could not feel any cool air in the seats and teh vents were not very cold.
Clutch seems to be engaged and not cycling.
I am taking back to them Wednesday.
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My truck does mostly pavement duty so no telling how long ago 4WD quit working but I needed it the other day and it's now a no-go. It's the '06 truck in my sig and it has ESOF.
When I flip the switch (4hi or 4low acts the same) my A/C continues to come out of the dash vents, it doesn't change. With KOEO I can hear a whirr-click from under the truck when switching 4wd on and off, I get noise both ways. 4x4 light on the dash seem to work correctly.
Broke out FORScan and got the following info:
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
===END GEM DTC P1832===
[Code] ....
Any tips to quickly nail it down between the switch, GEM, wiring or solenoid? Looks like the whole thing is failing. I've climbed under the truck and all the wiring appears undisturbed. No recent work under there. In FORScan, these DTC's were generated in a user initiated test and I didn't pick up the instruction to re-run the test in 4x2 mode until I posted just now.
Under the hood everything seems to be routed correctly and connected. Vacuum pump runs a short while on start up like always has. I can lock hubs manually and they don't seem to be binding hard but they are a little stiff, haven't done that before so I don't know how hard it should be to turn them. I have a MiteVac but haven't tried using it to try and lock the hubs. Not sure any of that matters (yet) with the DTC's listed above.
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The only problem it's had is the heated seats quit working.
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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So for 4500 miles since new my truck has been displaying, on the right side of the instrument display in the center dash, the actual gear the truck is in. I would shift from park to drive and move out and the truck would display what gear it was in by placing a lighted box around the gear number as it shifted 1-6. Now that display is gone. It's not anywhere. If I go to the manual mode it will display that, but the normal numbers from 1-6 , bottom to top , are gone.
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My SYNC voice commands witch I refer to as " Shiela" has quit working. No voice and it does not recognize phone. Just displays " no phone" ????
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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Yesterday I noticed when I parked my truck the Speedo was reading 10 mph. I drove around a bit and used my GPS to get my real speed which was 10 under what the Speedo read. I parked the truck for the night and in the morning nothing had changed, I drove for a bit and all the sudden the Speedo worked like normal.
Later that say the Speedo got stuck at 50 mph and now when I stop it reads anywhere between 50 to 60 mph and goes up from there. When I'm doing 30 mph it'll read 80 to 90 mph. Cruising on the highway it reads well over 100 mph.
I've done some reading and it seems like it either the cluster or a speed sensor. My cluster has had a lot of problems lately of not working at all, no gauges work, radio turns off and the Windows don't work but a good slap on the dash will fix that most of the time.
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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Ok, It was -17 this morning. I had my truck plugged in and got in this morning and it started rite up. BUT, there was a warning light on, in the dash. The light that looks like a engine block. So, I drive by the dealer and ask him what it is. Hes tells me that the Def is frozen and when it thaws out the warning light will go off. So, I drive around pretty much all day today, but the temps didn't get above 5 degrees all day. Got home and the warning lights was still on. Another thing, when I went to put her into reverse the buzzer came on and stayed on. Guess it frozen too. You colder area guys have this same problem?
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What the problem is with my F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trani sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop dianostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
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On a 300 mile round trip yesterday the service engine icon came on and stayed on. This happened once before last December after I bought my used 012 250 6.7. I took it back to the ford place and a mechanic cleared it on the gauges. This truck has correct oil and fluid levels. How to clear? It has been 4000 miles since they changed the oil and filters an I want to go a couple more K miles before I change it myself...
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So the last 3 or 4 times I have filled up my truck the needle on the gas gauge only goes up to about the 3/4 mark. What this could be? And how I could fix it?
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My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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I recently installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. All seems good.
@ idle 58-60 psi
@ WOT drops to 50 psi, no less.
Tonight I went to catch up to a car that had no lights on at all to tell them and during WOT fuel pressure gauge showed it dropped to less than 30! I let off immediately and it went right back up. I tried to repeat it with another go @ WOT and it would not go under 50 psi like normal.
Motorcraft fuel filters less than 3000 miles ago .. Blue spring installed over the winter.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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