Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Smoking Excessively / Intermittent Unresponsive Throttle
Mar 6, 2015
Ok so the other day the truck started smoking excessively (white smoke) mostly just when cold.. I didn't think a whole lot of it because I figured injector stiction. (The truck has 160,000 mi on it). There was not a noticeable miss while idling though. Last night I was driving and started to get an unresponsive throttle and it continues today after its warmed up. It does it when its cold also. Got a CEL today and went to Autozone for the code read...
U1900, P0528 & P0404
P0404 EGR valve
P0528 Fan speed sensor
U1900 ???
I am going to look at EGR valve here shortly and clean it try to get it functional again but I think it is coincidental and it doesn't have anything to do with the throttle issue...
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Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
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Any recommendations on brake calipers and hose?
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Got home today and smelled the "oil burning" smell. Blue smoke, didn't smell like brake pads. The smoke was evident from the right rear wheel. Put her in the garage and pulled the wheel. By the time this was done there was no smoke and no fluid anywhere, but there may not have been when it was smoking either. The drum was hot, the axle housing was not hot until closer to the drum/disc/wheel. The differential was slightly warm. Vent was not plugged. No obvious accumulation of lube or fluid on the inside of the wheel. Plenty of disc pad left. The actuator for the emergency brake that sticks out the back of the brake/plate assembly was super hot.
If I decide to pull the hub/rotor to inspect the brake shoes am I getting in far enough to commit to doing a full hub/bearing/seal inspect replacement? I'm getting old enough to pay a shop for this stuff and save my back, but if it's a no-brainer repair to get new seals I'd like to do it and save some bucks. Might as well do both sides right?
I'll be driving cross-country in June with a slide-in camper and want it done rather than a band aid job. It's never been checked before. 2006 F350 -- 150k miles. I'll keep searching the forum for answers but would like some opinions...
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2006 f250 egr delete banks intercooler / cac tubes. Afe intake ... Sinister egr delete plate..... Truck smokes when sitting at a lite upon take off. Removed down pipe found slight amount of oil. Removed turbo put a kit in it and it is worse now. The turbo was in bad shape. The thrust bushing was pretty ate up and it had a lot of shaft play. I cant believe it wasn't hitting the housings. My thought was maybe the housing is bad. If the orings fail on the vgt solenoid what happens ? The vgt is working cause i can throttle it with the auto ingenuity...
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The truck seems to be smoking a lot when I do start it then once I drive it for a second the smoke stops. The truck will not start after the engine gets hot..
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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I have read many different threads regarding the TPS sensor on the pedal and EBPV deletes on the E99 7.3L Powerstrokes. I am trying to troubleshoot some issues with my E99 7.3L. Usually on cool mornings and after not being started for awhile the truck will seem to be stuck in an Idle. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't always happen.
I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.
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Yesterday it was running fine today only half throttle, going up a hill no power throttle push 12 down let off the throttle engine smooths out and starts picking up speed ....
EGR stuck????
CAC boots look good do not hear any leaks on the tubes
no smoke
ICP 675 at idle full temp, cold 1200
OEM filters with OEM caps
ficm 48.5 to 47.5
Can hear the turbo spool up
Oil temp less than 10 dec difference with water temp
No code showing up
141,000 2003 F-350 dually
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I did some searching and cant seem to find this in a 6.0 (massive results in IDI)
If I rev my truck over about 3200 rpm and release the throttle, as it comes back down to idles it will stall.
Ficm voltage is fine and I am running a stock tune, ICP doesn't seem to drop until the stall...
What should I be looking for?
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I have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
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I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
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I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
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