Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Small Puddle Of Oil Under The Truck
Jul 3, 2017
I got out of home depot and there's a small puddle of oil under the truck. Open the hood and it looks like oil is shooting out from somewhere on the pass side. The Ac box, pass valve cover, and turbo down pipe have oil on them. The oil looks like its shooting onto the bottom and side of the down pipe. I ordered some new vc gaskets, is there anywhere else the oil could be coming from. I had it idling in the driveway and I don't see and oil shooting out. Is there a way to rev the motor from the engine compartment?
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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Having a puddle of coolant under truck after sitting. Shop said its a oring on the egr cooler. 1200.00? Is that normal?
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My good friend has a 2011 6.7 and has been dealing with a coolant leak for a few months. Dealership has had the rig a few times and said it passed " a pressure" test etc. and they see no issue, yet he finds a puddle under the truck when after it has been parked. How best to check it out? I'm not familiar with some of the common trouble spots on the 6.7 like I am with the 7.3.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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This is my first personal diesel so first one I've done maintenance on.
Bought the truck with almost 15k miles, it now has just over 16k and I changed the filters when I noticed the underhood filter was the original 3 port style.
There were some very small particles in the DFCM. Maybe dirt from dirty fuel nozzles?
Guessing this is nothing to be worried about?
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I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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I have a problem when I have been on the road for about an hour or more the wrench light comes on. There is no change in how the truck runs, and when I run a systems check it says that all of my temps are good to go. The one think I have noticed that the next morning I have a small oil leak on the ground on the days that the wrench has come on. The egr valve was just cleaned. I am getting ready to make a trip across the country with a 10,000 lb trailer so I am a little worried about this. Can I take it in to a shop and have them get a code when the light isn't on? Also I am replacing all of the glow plugs this weekend but from what I have read it shouldn't have anything to do with the wrench light.
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Late 04 6 liter, I'm in the process of putting my engine back together after doing studs. head gaskets ..etc. Its been awhile since I took it apart, and my memory isn't quiet what it use to be. There's a small stud on the ficm bracket, nearest the firewall and I honestly don't know what mounts to it. Ground wire maybe?
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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(E350 van)... I smelled diesel fuel inside the van tonight and used my flashlight to investigate the leak. The cover around the blue spring is damp.
Before I remove every again to gain access to the filter housing to fix the leak, what I am may encounter. Seems like a good time to do the blue spring upgrade. Can I access the egr valve to inspect and clean?
What are the possible areas to check for the leak? Sometimes finding little problems leads to finding big problems. When my FICM went out I discovered the battery terminal clamp was broke.
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I have approximately 66,000 miles on my 2013 F250 truck and noticed a small drip from the front drivers side around 40,000 miles. That random drip is now a leak and the truck will be going into the shop to replace the Primary Radiator.
I absolutely love this truck, but what a disappointment that this isn't a recall. What scares me is that my buddy who has a 2014 F250 will be going in for his second primary radiator in 3 years of ownership.
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Title says it all... Starts & idles pretty good. No codes. Has decent power on mild acceleration, any time you step on it more than 1500rpm it lets out little black puffs of smoke and intake makes that popping sound and truck jerks a little...EGR delete. HPO pressure is good. Injectors are fresh as of a year ago. Valves? Lifters? Turbo?
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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