Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Small Amount Coolant In Oil?
Jul 21, 2016
I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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I understand that exhaust runs through the EGR. what I don't know is:
Does the EGR valve control the amount of exhaust into the air intake?
If so, does only the amount of exhaust let through the valve go through the EGR?
if so, if the EGR valve is closed then no exhaust will go through the EGR?
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2007 F550 with the 6.0. About 2 months ago I replaced the EGR cooler with a Bulletproof cooler. Truck ran well for a few weeks. Then I started getting the "turbo fart". I stopped using the truck until I had an issue with another truck. I was stuck so I sent the 07 out without cleaning the turbo. This morning a decent amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. The smoke would sometimes get a bit gray. Going up hill it didn't have much power at all.
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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This is my first personal diesel so first one I've done maintenance on.
Bought the truck with almost 15k miles, it now has just over 16k and I changed the filters when I noticed the underhood filter was the original 3 port style.
There were some very small particles in the DFCM. Maybe dirt from dirty fuel nozzles?
Guessing this is nothing to be worried about?
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I got out of home depot and there's a small puddle of oil under the truck. Open the hood and it looks like oil is shooting out from somewhere on the pass side. The Ac box, pass valve cover, and turbo down pipe have oil on them. The oil looks like its shooting onto the bottom and side of the down pipe. I ordered some new vc gaskets, is there anywhere else the oil could be coming from. I had it idling in the driveway and I don't see and oil shooting out. Is there a way to rev the motor from the engine compartment?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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I have a problem when I have been on the road for about an hour or more the wrench light comes on. There is no change in how the truck runs, and when I run a systems check it says that all of my temps are good to go. The one think I have noticed that the next morning I have a small oil leak on the ground on the days that the wrench has come on. The egr valve was just cleaned. I am getting ready to make a trip across the country with a 10,000 lb trailer so I am a little worried about this. Can I take it in to a shop and have them get a code when the light isn't on? Also I am replacing all of the glow plugs this weekend but from what I have read it shouldn't have anything to do with the wrench light.
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Late 04 6 liter, I'm in the process of putting my engine back together after doing studs. head gaskets ..etc. Its been awhile since I took it apart, and my memory isn't quiet what it use to be. There's a small stud on the ficm bracket, nearest the firewall and I honestly don't know what mounts to it. Ground wire maybe?
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I have a 2008 Ranger sport. When set on max a/c can only feel a small amount of air coming out of the vents. Compressor gets cold an condensates. Would this be a problem with the actuator not opening the damper all the way?
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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(E350 van)... I smelled diesel fuel inside the van tonight and used my flashlight to investigate the leak. The cover around the blue spring is damp.
Before I remove every again to gain access to the filter housing to fix the leak, what I am may encounter. Seems like a good time to do the blue spring upgrade. Can I access the egr valve to inspect and clean?
What are the possible areas to check for the leak? Sometimes finding little problems leads to finding big problems. When my FICM went out I discovered the battery terminal clamp was broke.
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I have approximately 66,000 miles on my 2013 F250 truck and noticed a small drip from the front drivers side around 40,000 miles. That random drip is now a leak and the truck will be going into the shop to replace the Primary Radiator.
I absolutely love this truck, but what a disappointment that this isn't a recall. What scares me is that my buddy who has a 2014 F250 will be going in for his second primary radiator in 3 years of ownership.
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Title says it all... Starts & idles pretty good. No codes. Has decent power on mild acceleration, any time you step on it more than 1500rpm it lets out little black puffs of smoke and intake makes that popping sound and truck jerks a little...EGR delete. HPO pressure is good. Injectors are fresh as of a year ago. Valves? Lifters? Turbo?
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