Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Slight Surge When Cold - Boost Fluctuate
Mar 21, 2017
I've got a slight surge that's very noticeable cold and not so much after warmed, I can hear the turbo surging and feel a slight power increase on and off, checked with forscan the normal values, alls inline, I did not ck fuel pressure yet but will, I noticed vgt, boost fluctuates when this happens, icp ipr readings inline, this is a 04 with throttle plate inside the air elbow area, can this cause a surge and how to test this, I am not familiar with this setup as my 05 does not have it.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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I've had a scangauge on my truck for years and today while on vacation I noticed the voltage was fluctuating between 12.5-13.5 while driving. It has always ran at 13.5-13.7 .... I checked it with a fluke and it is a solid and steady 13.8v at idle. Why would that gauge be fluctuating like that? Truck seems to be running fine.
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After start up it bucks and surges, acts like it is starving. RPMs fluctuate. Once it fully warms up and driven a little bit it clears and runs normal. This all began after the alternator went bad and battery warning light came on. Batteries never went completely dead, but could low batteries effect sensors or control module. This morning it was difficult to start, not low battery problem, but a lot of bucking and black smoke. I changed the fuel filters and a little better. New air filter last week when alternator was replaced. No codes have appeared.
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I Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
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I started having an issue with a rough idle soon after startup about a month ago. I thought it might have been stiction so I added some Archoil stuff the other day to my oil interval change and although I have not put too many miles on it, the rough idle is still there.
At startup the engine runs great. I did notice a few times a little longer than normal crank (~3 seconds) where other times it fires up in less than 1 second. This has happened twice in the last month. Once the engine runs for about a minute I get an uneven idle......I wouldnt necessarily call it a miss per say. I took some readings for the ICP and IPR and can provide them if someone needs them. Once the truck warms up it seems to idle better but still not 100%. I have no power loss, no hesitations jut a weird idle with intermittent surging while in gear.
The truck is starting to surge a bit like an ICP sensor going bad but not as pronounced as the last time this happened to me 4 years ago. Basically trying to get opinions as to what it might be or what to check next. I am leaning toward one of three things.....stiction, ICP or IPR valve (original). FICM voltage is good but my fuel pressure gauge broke, but the blue spring upgrade I did.
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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My 2003 6.0 has started to surge at idle after driving for awhile. Like when I drive to work (30 min) and pull off the interstate the idle will bounce around at the stop sign (only jumping like ~100rpm). Does this sound like the ICP to you? I've replaced it once before and am wondering if it's time to do it again?
Also the truck will sometime be hard to start. And when I say hard to start I mean turn the key, let the GP cycle the turn to start and it just cranks. But as soon as I turn the key back off and cycle the plugs again it'll fire right up. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. It's been doing it since I got the truck. It seemed to get better after the 1st ICP but didn't completely get fixed.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Experienced a weird transmission issue this weekend. Started truck up first thing in the morning, only a short warm up, it was about 50*F. Drove about 200 yards to the gate. Stopped with foot on brake while wife got out to open gate.
Felt truck lunge/surge a little. Thought that was weird. Then it did at again, but more like a double surge, jumping in and out of gear.
Rolled forward through gate then stopped again with foot on brake. It did it again. But this time I noticed the gear indicator in the dash jump. It was shifting from 1st, to 5th, down to 3rd, then back to 1st.
I pulled out my phone and was able to catch video of it doing it a few more times. Start about 16 seconds into video. Transmission Ghosts?
About 1:20 in I drive forward and it shifts to 2nd fine. I stop again at 2:00 in.... and it does it again around 2:30. Then it also flashed a "Check brake system" and "Service AdvanceTrac" message for half a second (around 2:44 in video).
After catching video, I drove the remaining 1/2 mile driveway to the county road and stopped again. It didn't do it any more. It did however flash a traction control off/on message for about half a second. Didn't catch that on video though.
Drove 12 miles to town to Ford dealer. Service Dept was closed (Saturday). It didn't do the shifting again for the rest of the weekend. Made the drive home Monday (140 miles) without a problem.
Dropping it off tomorrow morning at 7AM so they can try to fix it. They hope it stored some codes even though it never gave me a wrench light or other trouble light that stayed on. Hopefully it's a just a software glitch or a faulty sensor.
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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Recently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
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after my DPF delete and fl0-pro 5" install, i've noticed a slight decrease in lower rpm boost. with the tune i have i can still get it wound up, but it takes a little "gettin on it" to get there. i miss the little bit of boost i had from stop lights and what not, or even cruising at 50 with a slight increase in fuel. i don't want to have to have it downshift in order to spool the turbo to get me that slight uptick in power.
i've heard differing opinions - "stock turbos need the 4" for more backpressure" ; "5 inches is great, b/c you could always use a couple extra inches" ; "there's no difference between the two, but you don't NEED a 5 inch until you're at 1k bhp".
i've got the 5" setup on there... that's that. how can i increase the reaction of the turbos? i've read about a wastegate adjustment (tightening), but not sure i'm ready to undertake that in the driveway, and i don't have access to a lift. nor am i sure this will correct my "issue." (i quoted it, b/c it's not really an issue, it's just a personal preference that i'm wanting to adjust to make myself a little more happy with the performance of the truck)
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
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I've got an 05 EX 4x4 150k miles. Stock tune, EGR delete only ....
Driving along and everything was good plenty of boost no power issues. Got off the freeway and truck just stopped making boost. So I messed with it for a couple days. Cousin with a Mac scanner flaked on me so I was stuck using Edge gauge cluster and trying to trouble shoot.
NO CODES, No smoke, EGT's rise and truck seems like it is lean. Boost has fluctuated between 4psi to 11 psi. What should MAF be at idle?
ICP has been consistent with whatever boost levels were being made.
FICM 47.5
New MAP tube/nipple cleaned
New MAF
Clean Air filter
New fuel filters
VGT actuates
Accel ped in spec
Turbo spins free
New hot side CAC boots
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Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
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