Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Shut Off While Driving Down The Highway
Oct 1, 2015
So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
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Just to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go.
After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90 then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
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So I am out of town about 120 miles from home on a job. I was driving down the mountain road to the store and my tuck just shut down. Lucky for me I was able to get into a turn out. So I try to start the truck and it will not fire. I check for codes I am getting p2614, p2617 so I was able to clear the codes and get back to the house I am staying in. What is going on with my tuck. Oh ya the code did not come back on in the 15 min drive to the house. Also just finished up doing a y pipe and my egr o ring so I and the intake and all that off.
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Turbo is dead. I knew this day was coming. It died driving down the highway tonight at 55 MPH. Plenty of power since I left the office, all of a sudden the tone of the engine changed to a 6.0L and there was no power at my disposal.
Nursed it home keeping an eye on EGT's and let it soak while I ate supper.
Started it up, let it idle for a minute and tried a few revs but no boost and no turbo whistle.
Garage actually had a very slight haze to it after the test revs so something is broken.
DPF shouldn't be allowing any type of smoke to pass.
Bummer. Now I need a rental so I can get to the airport. Murphy's law has been in effect all day between software upgrades (IT stuff) and now my truck.
No CEL (this is shocking to me) but I found : P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
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I just got back from a trip across the state to see the Miami boat show! Truck was running just fine on the trip over, EOT/ECT delta around 9* (seems a little high to me, Im hoping because im running 35's, but can someone back me up on this?)
On the trip back, cruising at 70, I noticed the check engine light went on... I didn't have it under heavy throttle or obscure circumstances... My ScanGauge 2 showed that I had a P0299, which as Ive read means something relating to underboost?
I cleared the code. And the CEL never showed again in the last 100 miles... Could this just be a quirk? Or should I be more worried about it?
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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So a few day ago my truck shut down while driving. I posted up and checked the ficm harness as suggested. Things were a bit lose so I zip tied my harness around the ficm. Thought it was all fixed and test drove it and it shut down again. I tried to start it a few times and my ICP was a tad low about 450 ,I have a brand new ICP and harness. Checked my scan gauge and I have code p2614. I cleared the codes and the truck started right up. I need to get this sorted out I was supposed bro go home tomorrow from working out of town all week about 100 miles from home...
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Been chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
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2006 f350 6.0..... I was driving for about 10 hours and truck ran fine. Until with no warning it just died. Got it towed home and now I try to start. It turns over fine but no fire.... I know not to use but we used starter fluid to see of it would fire thinking maybe file filter bit still no fire with the starter fluid. I find it weird that it won't fire even on stater fluid. The engine oil was very low as well but since topped it up.
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I have ran 05 f250 and the wrench light keeps coming on mostly when I'm doing highway driving or when I go to pass someone. iv putt code readers on it(autoparts store readers and the good expensive ones)and i keep getting bad egr and some other codes but when I have the truck looked at everything is prefect I had a flush done on the truck and and it still comes on randomly . Could the fact that it needs an oil change cause the light to come on intermittently or is something else going on??
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2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
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I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I just got 500 miles to empty message. On my next trip out I grabbed a 2.5 gallon at my local auto parts store. When I had 99.9 percent of the jug in, it actually started to spit back out. I got the rest in and figured I was done. It did seem strange that it only took 2.5 as I figured it was just about empty to get this message and 2.5 would only take me half way. Anyways, a few trips later and the message is still there. Do I have a bad level sensor or was it spitting out prematurely? Shouldn't 2.5 gallons have killed the warning even if it didn't fill it?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 and it has a startup kit installed. When I start by using the key works perfect. But won't shut off by key! I have to use the stop button on key fob to kill the engine. I'm thinking relay might be stuck? And the relay on start up kit is working? Key removed it doesn't diesel down, it runs like key is still in.
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I am award of the problem. And hope to be one of the majority that never has to deal with the issue. But, if the problem were to happen and the code thrown could it be as easy as to pull over. And if you had a code reader that could clear code.
Could you simply clear the code and be on your way? If so, how far would you get before the code reappeared and you had to repeat the read and clear the code again.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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This morning I noticed when I started the truck had a rough idle shaking truck. The truck felt weak. Boost would go up but truck felt like it was in sand. While coasting on the highway at 50-55mph the truck not only lags in power but vibrates viciously until the overdrive kicks in that vibrations in cab and ssteering wheel go away.. What might be going on?
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