Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Shake At Idle - P0278 Code Cylinder 6
May 6, 2016
Truck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
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I have an 03 ex with 03 motor. I use torque pro all the time and periodically check for any codes. Well, I got P0278 but no check engine light. It does seem to start a little different than our 05 with 04 motor. It sounds like it just doesn't fire right away or like it turns over and then decides to start. It doesn't make the destinctive sound at the end of cranking when it starts. I hope that makes since. I could tell it sounded different, that is why I checked for any codes. It also seems to run just fine down the road and at idle. Where to start or what to look for?
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2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?
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Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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I have a 2011 F-250 with 112k miles.
On 11/25/2016 at approximately 110k miles: my truck was 100% stock. I was about a half hour into a 3 hour drive and I got a Check Engine Light. I stopped to get some food and my truck was idling for about 10 minutes when the light came on. My code reader said it was for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I cleared the code, restarted the truck and drove away.. I drove about another 5 minutes until I started hearing a real bad air leak and the truck just didn't feel like it was driving right. Check engine light never came back on, but it just didn't feel right so I towed it home.
The truck went to the dealer, they said they found the EGR Inlet Tube was cracked, and that explained the air leak sound I heard when I continued driving, and they said the truck was probably running rich from the lack of air and that set the P0278 code. They replaced the tube and everything was fine.
On 12/14/2016 with around 111,500 miles: upset that just one pipe breaking could take down the whole truck with no one having that part in stock to get me back on the road, I "deleted" my truck. Removed the DPF, installed "block-off" plates for the EGR (which goes in place of the EGR inlet tube), a Cold-Air Intake, and H&S MiniMaxx. (Exact parts can be found in my signature).
On 12/25/2016 with around 112,500 miles: I was getting ready for work and I started my truck using the Ford Factory Remote Start that was original equipment on the truck. The truck ran for about 10 minutes when I hopped in it and took off. As soon as I got in it, The Check Engine Light was on and I had a code for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I erased the code and restarted the truck.. drove to work (around 50 miles) with no problems. Truck ran fine, I never felt any problems, and no smoke or anything like that.
10 hours later I'm getting ready to leave work and let the truck run on remote start for 10 minutes. I hop in the truck and drive away.. there's no check engine light, but, my tuner says there's two DTC's.. P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance" and now P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance"... I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, and drove home with no problems.
12/26/2016 I started the truck on remote start again for 10 minutes. No check engine light, but the tuner says there's one DTC for P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance". Cleared the code, restarted the truck, and drove to work with no problems. Got back in the truck after 12 hours, drove home and didn't get a DTC or Check Engine Light on the drive home.
12/27/2016: No DTC's or Check Engine light. Where I should start looking to fix this?
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I have a 2004 F250 with a powerstroke 6.0. I have done the egt delete and oil cooler upgrade. Last weekend I did head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, injector o rings, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, water pump, and exhaust gaskets. After everything was done and truck was primed and started it ran really rough. I drove it a little to possibly purge any air and it still ran rough and I got a code p0275 for cylinder 5 contribution. I removed valve cover and oil rail and swapped injector 3 and 5. 5 was covered in fuel. After reinstalling oil rail I cranked engine over and saw cylinder 5 intake valves were not moving. Removed rail and rockers. Pulled push rod and it was bent. Installed new push rod a and reassembled. Crank engine over to verify all rockers were moving. Reinstalled valve cover and started truck. Truck ran great. Cleared codes and test drove. After test drive truck sounded like it was missing so I checked the codes again and p0275 was back! I know at this point I need to check the harness but any other possibilies you may know of? FICM voltage it good at 48v and oil pressure reads good as well.
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Pulled p0678, glow plug 8. I've changed out the glow plug on cylinder 1 a few years ago.
Cylinder 8, being on the driver side rear, is it difficult to change out? Should I just pay Ford or another shop to fix this?
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I'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.
Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .
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I have an 04 f350 with an 03 6.0 motor. Truck started running very rough a two weeks ago. Checked codes and found p0274 and p0275. Both codes are for cylinder 5. I replaced #5 injector and truck ran like normal for a few days then began to miss again when operating temperature hits about 187+. It will show code p0275 once hot as it misses. When cold runs fine, starts fine. No smoke. Could I have put In a bad injector? It was purchased from AutoZone...
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Have a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
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I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
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my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.
started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change
so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.
I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM
Is that necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
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2003, not deleted, everything was stock except for he put a Bully Dog on it with can tunes. Died on him was replaced ICP started up ran horrible was throwing different injector codes, IPR was at 84% at idle, plus had a lot of pressure on degas bottle.
Just finished studding, deleting, oil cooler, ICP, and injectors. She started up fairly easy, only to have the IPR still at 84%, ICP bouncing between 670s to 790s this just after start up from the work. Truck still runs horrible and still throwing #5 injector code also using AE and injector 5 wont Buzz. So, would be safe to say Injector harness and IPR sensor?
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I posted many months ago about a problem I had while towing. This weekend I towed about 5,000 lbs, bumper pull with no load distribution, for about 600 miles. The truck did well except for the steering shake I noticed at 75 mph. The road was smooth, all interstate, but it did go away when traveling about 70 mph. I've had the tires road force balanced, two alignments and it's stock with 20 inch BFG's AT (2012 Laria 4 door, 4x4, diesel). I'm running 65 psi with a dual steering stabilizer from pro comp and all four shocks pro comp as well. Could it be the casters or anything similar?
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I got a "P054F- Idle Control System - Fuel Quantity Higher Than Expected" this morning and again this afternoon. I did a search and the only threads that contain the code are the codes lists and one guy who got the code but no follow up. I found a few instances through Google, but almost all of them said the dealers just reset the code. It seems to happen in cold weather, which we are having. Both instances were in the same situation, remote start warmed up then short town drives. No CEL came on. Anyway, I reset it and I'll see what happens.
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I have been ignoring a slight aggravating shake in the steering wheel for quite some time. I just assumed tire out of balance or slightly warped front rotor or some ball joint work due to approaching 80,000 miles. Well the slightly warped rotor became much worse so i dove into the front brakes. Long story short it ended up being the rear brake rotor/caliper sticking transferring the vibration to the steering wheel. With two other vehicles to maintain i missed/neglected the rear hardware on the truck. So keep the rear brake hardware on your radar for a front end shimmy. Its gone now and a pleasure to drive again. I do have the crew cab and 8' bed which gives the rear end a long lever.
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I purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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