Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: SCT Gauge Updated - Now Getting General Error 21000?
Sep 8, 2016
My SCT X4 tuner was not loading the gauges, so I updated it and then the gauges started working. Then I check the codes and it came up as "General error 21000".
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
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I had incorrect codes its a p200c and p200e
I know this has been talked about but im not having the same results when doing tests
Truck had a ruff fri night. Getting on I state with trailer loaded and it said STOP SAFELY NOW shut donw before i got it under 30 mph. Had it towed back to our shop and started to figure out what was wrong. I have heard of egt 12 and egt 13 sensors going bad. so i un plugged them and put a test meter to the first three all came back in the 216.00 range which is in standard for what my buddy's tested at.
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6.0 diesel 83,000 miles. My CEL is always on and my Edge gauge says it's lower than expected Mass air flow. I've changed the filter, cleaned the MAF with special cleaner and then replaced with new. I've replaced the EGR valve.
If I clear the codes and run it I don't get a CEL until I turn it off. But the next time I start it, there it is again. My Edge reads 0.0-0.3 MAF while running but what that means. One end of my cleaner box is slightly warped but I can't feel any noticeable leakage.
Everything runs fine but I would like to regain the ability to have that idiot light available to tell me if I have a new problem.
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I just did a test drive with my 04 6 liter, I did the stealth egr delete. I had a P0400 error code any concern?
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I had a bad Glow Plug on my 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel causing the check engine light to go on. I replaced the Glow Plug and cleared the OBD2 error. The check engine light is off now, but I can't pass the smog check because EGR Monitor "Not Ready"
I put 100+ miles city/freeway miles on the truck, but I still get EGR Monitor "Not Ready" Even tried "Drive Cycle" with no luck...
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My ScanGauge just went blank, which was nuisance because I like to monitor it in the mountain climbs. It felt like a 'naked' dash without it. My separate pyrometer was the only additional info I had. The ScanGauge only has a few thousand miles on it. Wondering how reliable these things are before considering getting another, or inquiring about a fix I know I will first have to double check that the OBII port is still OK, but I expect it is.
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Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
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What is the least intrusive way to install an oil pressure gauge in these trucks and still maintain the input to the computer?
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I currently own a 2006 F550 4x4 pick-up. I just finished changing the oil and my oil pressure gauge is not working....
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I am installing Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on my Yellow Submarine. To keep an eye on things. Well installing it on my tablet, and installing that in my Yellow Sub. I already have the Bluetooth dongle. What to set up, what to monitor, what to test? Etc..... I want to continuously monitor this truck while driving it. Being it went swimming.
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Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
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I have googled for this and searched the typical sites but cannot find the PID to monitor the MAF with my scan gauge II. Am I blind or does it even exist?
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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My 2005 is doing strange things. The fuel gauge is always incorrect. I have done the following:
1. Replaced fuel level sensor.
2. Inspected and tested wiring from the firewall to the tank.
There are no codes present and the fuel % listed in torque is always correct. The gauge sometimes reads 1/2 above full, nearly all of the time it's above the 3/4 tank mark. I have an android head unit that I am using to gauge fuel level right now. I believe the cluster is bad.
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I just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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So the last 3 or 4 times I have filled up my truck the needle on the gas gauge only goes up to about the 3/4 mark. What this could be? And how I could fix it?
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OK so here is what is going on in my world. I have an '03 F-250 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4, with an Edge programmer and 4" MBRP exhaust. About 3 years and only 20,000 miles ago I changed out the HPOP, O-rings on the rails, all new O-rings on the injectors, blue spring in the fuel pump, IPR valve, EGR valve and a number of other new seals in my high pressure system. The truck has run great since then. I cleaned out my turbo about a year ago and it has been like new.
Now for the fun part. About a month ago it has been cranking a little longer when hot than it should, but not too bad. About 2 weeks ago even though it starts fine in the morning, it is just completely gutless out of the driveway until about a block away the turbo spools up strong and it runs great. It has run perfectly during this time once it is warmed up a little bit. Saturday it left me stranded in a parking lot cranking with no start. It had been sitting for about 2 hours.
I got towed home and plugged in my SGII and it shows my ICP at 345 when cranking hot. Once cold it starts up and runs great, but won't start again once hot. I changed out my IPR valve with a used one that I had on the shelf that I took out when I did my HPOP. No change. The FICM has 47 volt while cranking and 49 when just ign is on. Batteries are very strong and it has a new starter. When cranking the low oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Not sure where to start and I am frustrated. I have had this truck for 9 years and it is in great shape. It only has 138,000 miles.
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