Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Runs And Starts Perfect But Under Medium To Hard Acceleration It Bucks / Sputters
Aug 14, 2015
Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I'm getting a p0087 on a hard acceleration new low pressure pump new fuel filters run the pinpoint test in the pced is fine and passes the high pressure test with the ids? Not sure where to go from here?
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My delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
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Experiencing a squeal under hard acceleration at 3000 rpm with roughly 20lbs of boost, not present before and not present after 3000 rpm. light acceleration to 3000 rpm does not create sound, as well as turning 20lbs at a lower rpm (higher gear with throttle input). Truck has an EGR delete, EGR delete up pipe. EGR valve is still in place and plugged in. Truck did come with a banks six gun, so does not have EGR delete tune, however no trouble codes are present. What to check?
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I recently purchased a 2011 F350 chassis cab with no bed installed. Have a few questions regarding the exhaust system. When I inspected and drove it noticed some black smoke when under hard acceleration, nothing major though. Other that that the truck drove great. Have not got the truck home yet, a friend is going to pick it up and deliver it in a few days. Based on the visible smoke I was suspicious of the exhaust system but I have no knowledge of what the system is suppose to look like. My experience with diesels and for that matter gas engines is mostly from the days of mechanical fuel injected diesels (70's era farm tractors mostly) and carberated gas engines.
My friend stopped by a local Ford dealer and crawled around under a new 2015 Chassis cab to look and compare to this 2011. It appears that the SCR and DPF are not installed on this truck. Where they would normally be is a section of pipe with a section about 2 feet long that is 6 or 8 inches in diameter. Looking at some threads on this site I'm guessing this is a muffler that has been added since the truck is not loud. There is no DEF tank and all the wiring for sensors that would be attached to the exhaust system appear to be tied off to the frame and not connected to anything. The dealer didn't know the history beyond he purchased it on an auto auction and he installed a new rear end in it. Car Fax shows nothing of concern.
My question is should I now be concerned since have determined much of the exhaust system has been removed? I've read some threads and it appears that the only way this can be done and have the engine run well without any codes etc is if the removal is done with some sort of tune. Is there any way to determine who has done the tune? Will it be an issue when take to a Ford dealer for service?
I know if wanted to put the system back to stock would be large dollars, as long as the system runs well and is reliable I will be happy. The anticipated use of the truck will be to pull gooseneck trailer and will probably not see more than 1000 miles a year towing and 5 to 10k total in a year. I drive with a very light foot seldom ever pressing any vehicle to its limits. If still have the truck in 10 years when retire or at least cut back on my work then it may see more miles.
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
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After start up it bucks and surges, acts like it is starving. RPMs fluctuate. Once it fully warms up and driven a little bit it clears and runs normal. This all began after the alternator went bad and battery warning light came on. Batteries never went completely dead, but could low batteries effect sensors or control module. This morning it was difficult to start, not low battery problem, but a lot of bucking and black smoke. I changed the fuel filters and a little better. New air filter last week when alternator was replaced. No codes have appeared.
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Our temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
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I just got a 2006 ford F250 lariat fx4,and it's already at the shop.. when cold start it has some white smoke, but once I get up to highway speeds the truck jerks and bucks. turbo is putting out normal boost. I've changed oil and filters along with fuel filters. also put on a new serpentine belt and pulley, air filter and have everything cleaned real good. the truck is acting like it's starving for fuel. FICM or injectors ?
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I have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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So I am relatively new to diesel engines! I have a f250 6.0L, that every now and again sputters and idles rough, when the ac is off? Yes I did say off. It's only done this twice, but when I turn the ac on it goes away and runs fantastic. Not sure what could cause this, and think it's a little weird that it's not consistent. Sometimes I run it without ac and it's fine, but this has happened twice now, so I thought it might be worth figuring out.
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I am the original owner of a 2003 F250 Super Duty 6.0L. I have had all the required work that has ever needed to be done to it, including replacing the entire wiring harness and some work on the turbo this last September. Over the last few weeks I have noticed it sputtering when going between 45-55MPH up a hill. It only does this when I'm going at a steady speed. It starts fine and accelerates fine, but if I'm going a steady speed up a hill 45-55MPH I notice the sputtering. I've had almost all my work done by the dealership and just had it in last week for this, but they have told me there is nothing wrong, but knowing my truck, I know there is. What could be causing this? There are no check engine lights on or anything.
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I've had a 2007 Coachman Freelander class C RV with E-450 for about 8 months now. We have been on 7 camping trips to the same location this summer, and the engine has sputtered in exactly the same place on 6 of these trips. It's pretty freaky, like the road has bad mojo there.
We have to come down a steep incline for about 2 miles, dropping about 500' vertical at about 6500' elevation. Then we drive for 2 miles on the flat before hitting a big mountain climb up to 7500'. About 30 seconds into the climb, the engine will sputter, and kick out smoke from the tailpipe. The first time I pulled over, and it idled fine. I took off and climbed the hill just fine. Now I just drive through the sputter, and it goes away after a minute.
So what's happening? Is the fuel tank sloshing crud around? I never get a water-in-fuel alarm, although the E450 doesn't have much of a message center. It doesn't happen on other sections of mountain road. This rig has about 38,000 miles, and is bone stock. I put new oil and fuel filters in before the summer. This rig is the same size as my old '82 RV E350 w/ 460, and boy is the 6.0L an improvement!
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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