Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Running Hot While Towing / Coolant System Gurgling
Sep 9, 2015
So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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Didn't think anything of it but i have noticed a few times this week when i start the truck after it's to temp, shut down for an hour, the restart I hear coolant gurgling in the dash area? Was very noticeable this evening. Still no overheating and heat blows nice and hot. Still getting the blows warm to a certain temp, then cold to a certain temp, then hot once to temp then will stay hot until fully cold soaked. Think my tstat is not acting right?
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I have a 2003 6.0l... When I first bought truck, seemed to run fine. Since then truck has broke down on me once. I took it on a six hour drive, and couldn't turn vehicle off, because if so, truck wouldn't start back up until cool. After getting to my destination, fans seemed very loud every time I pressed pedal, and seemed very sluggish. Drove it a couple days and boost was low and fans continued to sound like they werre engaging even when I first started truck for the day. Had truck towed to shop, because it cut off on me when driving.
At shop : Truck had air filter, water in fuel sensor, o-ring for draining plug, new ICP sensor and harness, and HFCM cleaned up as it was filled with gunk.
After shop : Fans quit being so loud, but have not had near the boost I had before issues started. Truck struggles to go from stop, and around 15 psi boost gauge starts shaking erratically. Also, I have been losing coolant in a short period of time, and can't see any leak coming from anywhere, and also my radiator has been making a sloshing/gurgling noise and it will stop, then come back all within bout ten seconds. And I guess while I'm writing, I should mention the bucking after it downshifts in about third or fourth gear giving it gas makes the truck buck until the RPMs are above 2000 or it upshifts or downshifts, and at an idle seems to miss until warm.
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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The same day that I noticed my coolant temp was running high as I was driving around in my 2011, i was driving around in my corn field cutting wood and i noticed i was dragging something under the truck. when i got out and looked under the truck, there was coolant running down all over the bell housing and oil pan. i was a bit worried that it was my head gaskets leaking but once i got it in the shop and looked at the heads, all looked good. i wasnt sure where it was coming from! so i looked up common coolant leaks on the 6.7 on youtube.
First video was one of the coolant line on the turbo leaking. so i crawled up on top and shoved a mirror down by the turbo and sure enough i could see coolant leaking around the connector fitting coming out of the turbo. apparently the gasket goes bad around this fitting allowing it to leak. i was just wondering if this is really that common of an issue? I did the work myself. and its not really that hard to get to the turbo, its just time consuming removing all the crap around it. all i had to do was remove some connectors that were attached to the plastic intake and remove the intake then you can reach into that fitting. total time was around 2.5 hours.
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
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I've got a stock '15 F250 6.7 w/ the Diesel Site FF67 fuel/water separator and a 50gal Titan Tank. I installed the filter + tank at the same time around 2 months ago; A few weeks ago, I started noticing an odd buzzing/whirring/gurgling noise (both while the truck was running, and while the fuel pump spins up right after turning the key on). I made a quick video of it this morning:
Ford F250 6.7 w/ Diesel site filter DFCM buzzing/whining - YouTube
I thought maybe it was a filter related problem (I got some little black plastic bits in the filter after installing the Titan Tank, despite my best efforts to clean it out thoroughly before installing) - so earlier this week, I replaced both stock fuel filters, and both filters in the DS filter. Didn't seem to affect the noise from the DFCM at all.
I guess my question is - does it sound like this is sucking in air? I've never found any leaking fuel (even after a 3000mi drive from TX to VA and back), and the truck has never complained about low fuel pressure as I've read that some others have run into. But I don't remember the DFCM/low pressure pump being this loud before I installed the new parts.
I spoke to the folks at DieselSite a day or two ago (those guys are great), and they mentioned that sometimes the Ford quick-release fittings work themselves a little loose from the fuel hose during the filter install, and that putting a hose-clamp around the hose+quick release fitting may solve this; I ordered from clamps from McMaster Carr that arrived today, so I may give that a try tomorrow just to see if it changes anything.
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Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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Just looking for comments on using the cruise control while towing? and what's the recommended weight for using the tow haul mode. The enclosed trailer I have is about 3300 lbs. taking it across the country empty. 2004 6 liter.
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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I was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
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Took my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
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I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
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Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
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I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
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