So the other day while towing my 5er my temp alarm on my CTS went off at 220. I let off and it cooled down, but not where it usually runs. Unloaded it will run at 200 where it usually runs at 180 or less. Its an 06 EGR deleted, coolant filter, studs, the works. Water pump? Thermostat? Coolant level is ok.
View 14 RepliesI recently noticed on my truck that my oil temp was running high, I would go down the interstate at 75 mph and the oil temp would get up to 215-218 while my coolant temp would sit around 192-196. So, I took it into the shop and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler and had it replaced 2 years ago when I had my injectors and gaskets replaced along with my egr deleted. So, got the truck yesterday, going 60mph down the highway, truck ran an oil temp of 192 and the coolant at 188. Was great, but later on once I got to the interstate going my 75 mph, The oil temp jumped to 209 and my coolant sat at 192. Not sure what the deal is, was told the oil cooler was replaced and wanted some input on what else I could be looking at. I currently have 5w40 synthetic oil running in it. I have an EDGE CTS tuner on it and tuned it back to stock mode, but oil temp still jumps up to 209 and coolant remains around 190-192.
View 14 RepliesWhile driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
View 14 RepliesI have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
View 9 RepliesEver since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
View 1 RepliesOne of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
I bought this truck used. The keys I received do not have fob buttons on them? The truck can only be unlocked with the key at the drivers door. The alarm timing is very short, (good thing if someone is breaking into it), if I unlocking with the key and don't start it right away? Do all F250's accept key fobs? Or does the XL model not had the unlock modules that I can program a keyless fob to lock and unlock? Doors and windows are power. 2011 F250 XL 6.7 4x4..
View 9 RepliesI have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
View 5 RepliesI know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
View 14 RepliesThis is not on my truck. This is on my buddies 04 we just did the egr delete and oil cooler and a bunch of other stuff to.
Coolant temp doesn't go past 170 which I assume a new thermostat will fix this issue no problem.
but, the oil temp never goes past 140 no matter what driving for an hour at 70 and it doesn't change.
Bad sensor? Or would replacing the thermostat bring the oil temp up to where it should be?
I recently observed coolant temps of up to 217 degrees as reported by my mini max and oil of 230 as reported by the dash while towing 9000 pounds from San Diego to Las Vegas on the 15 going up the 16 mile mountain grade. My temp gauge on the dash never moved a bit, it stayed in the same spot from 199 to 217 so I assume its not too hot. My mini max defuel setting has the coolant temp at 220? I slowed down and tried to keep it under 210.
View 8 RepliesI have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
View 3 RepliesLast night I backed my truck up to allow another family member to leave, and the back-up sensor alarm started beeping, like it does when the tail-gate is down and backing up.
The truck had not been driven on Christmas day, but it had rained and snowed lightly (dusting), then the temp dropped to 20 degrees.
Can a light dusting/ice cause the sensor to react the same as a close object. I think it does, just trying to confirm.
My 2012 got it's first "500 miles to empty...." DEF alarm yesterday. I added 2.5 gallons and the same alarm keeps showing up each time I start the engine. Is there some kind of other reset required? Do I need to fill the tank up completely to reset it? I'm concerned the engine will shut down after 500 miles even though the DEF tank is about 1/2 full.
View 14 RepliesTo start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
View 8 RepliesI've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?
This is the only 6.0 I have owned. My tranny temp (with the Torque Pro) is pretty much always the same as my ECT. My ECT will move, and less than 2 seconds later, the tranny will move to the same temp. Is this normal? I was expecting lower tranny temps, but maybe it should be the same because of sharing the radiator.
View 11 RepliesLooking at another 6.0. It's an 2005 with 156k. When test driving it on the scan gauge water temp stayed around 160 and don't believe it ever went above 170 if it even made that. Bad t-stat? Or a more significant issue? The other issue I seen that concerned me, is cruising at 65 for 10 minutes plus to check deltas their was up to a 20 degree difference so I'm thinking plugged oil cooler and bad egr cooler. Temps were 190 eot and maybe 170 ECT. Wasn't sure if the water temp issue affected the results on this reading or not.
View 14 RepliesI'm about to take my ambulance on its first road trip but I'm skeered because the OBDII connector is dead so my ScanGauge doesn't work. The temp gauge always says normal, but several times I have heard the fan kick on for a few seconds when driving in routine conditions. Is that normal with these big vans? Is the weight of the ambulance box so much that the fan has to kick in more often?
Again, when I've heard the fan, it only came on a few seconds. My only experience is with the Fseries 6.0s I've had - when those fans came on, the temp would be at least 205, usually more than 210, and it would run longer. However, those were always pulling a trailer, which I guess is about the same as the heavy ambulance box.
Is there any way to tell whether the engine is running hot besides the truck's idiot gauge?
My F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 Replies