Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rubbing Sound Can Be Heard Through The Turn On Truck
May 5, 2015
6.0L Forum - I've noticed an unusual sound on my truck. Upon driving if I make a turn more than 15 degrees a "rubbing" sound can be heard through the turn, no "knocking" is not present. Once the steering wheel is straight the sound changes to a "whir". If I turn less than 15 degrees a noticeable sound can not be heard. As the RPM's vary, the sound will also vary. If I get out of the truck and listen for this sound in the engine bay I can not hear it. The sound is only distinct within the cab. It sounds like a weak motor trying to move something or a pump running low, my guess in the dark.
I've checked the oil level - good
I've checked the transmission fluid level - good
I've checked the power steering fluid level - good
I've checked the brake fluid - good
I have read that a master cylinder could wear and create a rubbing/unusual sound. What else should I check for? The truck has 238,000 miles.
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I own a Passat 2003 1.8t. When I drive at low speed 20/30 kmh , There's a rubbing sound that comes out of the forward part of the vehicle. The sound gets a bit louder and turns into a vibration at high speed 80/100 kmh.
When i drive at low speed and turn left the sounds/vibration get louder.
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I have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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06 6.0L 205k
EGR, cat, and muffler delete
IPR replaced roughly 10k miles ago
New oil cooler roughly 15k ago
Replaced turbo Y up pipe 15k ago
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, and serp belt roughly 50k ago
I've got a strange squeal sound coming from under the hood only when truck is cold? It sounds like a bearing and after it gets heated up the sound stops. I talked with a guy thats a cummins guy and he said he had a similar issue and he had to replace the bearing in the turbo? Also when truck is warm it will still do it, like for instance, if I run in a store and truck idles for 5-10 mins it will do it only if I romp on it for a short while like 2-3 mins then again goes away. And if I'm idling or in neutral, hot/cold, it does not do it, it seems to be only under a load. Pull a 26 foot boat no problems.
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What could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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I have this creaking sound/feeling underfoot when my suspension articulates in a turn. Seems to me like it's the control arm bushing where it meets the frame which is directly under the driver's side of the cab...
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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It appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
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I have a weird rubbing/squeak noise from what it sounds like the rear. It occurs only after ive been driving for about an hour then it never goes away. Thought it was the pads so I put all new ones on. Maybe a bearing of some sort. I'm totally going nuts over this and cant pinpoint it!
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I just identified an annoying squeak as the right side of the tailgate, right at the hinge, rubbing on the section of the rear passenger side quarter panel (one with FX4 decal) where it curls around to the rear. Any way to easily adjust the tailgate slightly to the drivers side? When the tailgate is up, the gap is noticeably smaller on the passenger side, and when down, the edge of the tailgate rubs the edge of the quarter panel, paint to paint.
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I had a friend install 18" rims with 35x12.5 tires on my new 2016 F-250 CC SWB that had 18" stock rims. They came off my 2002 Ford 7.3. There is a "creaking" noise coming out of the brake calipers when moving forward slowly with the brakes applied. This never happened with the tires/rims on my 7.3.
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and the belt is rubbing front edge of the belt and making a whipping sound at 65 mph. Have replaced tensioner, idler, water pump and a/c bearing & pulley.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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I just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
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