Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rough Idle That Accompanies The Cold Start
Mar 30, 2015
I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean .... It's 98* on a cool day , when "cold" I mean just started for many hours.
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I'm having a bit of a cold start issue, need to know if it is normal or something is wrong. I live in southern Indiana and it's gotten down to a VERY cold 50 degrees (lol) and the past two mornings I have started it up and it seems to have a misfire first thing in the morning and it will kick into high-idle mode and after I shut it off and start it back up about 20 seconds later after the ECT gets above 100* and it runs perfectly. It has brand new 190/100 injectors from Warren, an IDP tune, and I am running 13 quarts of FoMoCo 15w-40 oil with 2 quarts of hot shot stiction eliminator (tried it before installing new injectors). And also throwing no codes. Is this normal or should I be looking for a problem?
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So after replacing all injectors, I was getting a rough idle and drive. Got an imbalance on 5 & 4. Cleared out codes and 5 still showed. The guy doing my work and I couldn't trace it to anything so we thought well maybe we got a bad one. Did fail the buzz test. So got a warranty one and put in. Wouldn't you know it's still not running quite right. Only thing we can think of is maybe the ficm is at the start of going out. Voltage reads good still though. Staying constant at 47/48. Is more noticeable to run rough when starting from cold then smooths out but you can still make out/feel an injector going in and out.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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This is tough one to search on. Most of the results talk about a poor idle or the high idle mod. I simply have no cold idle up. It used to work a few years ago but doesn't anymore. I live in Colorado and it's definitely cold enough for the high idle to kick in. I have no codes, nothing bad shows up on the Auto Enginuity.
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My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
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My IPR value on torque pro koeo is at 14.7. Is that normal? Usually idles around 23.7-24 but when I experience a slight rough idle IPR will be 26-27. When I was under the truck last week I did see there's been oil leaking somewhere seems leaving evidence on the drivers side rear of bellhousing. Any relation?
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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I recently bought a 2004 6.0 extended cab truck. It has 223,000 miles on it and has been running great. Bought it here in Arkansas where I live and recently drove it to Texas and back after having just put some Hot Shot oil treatment cleaner in it. I ran it the 1000 miles as it suggests. Just the other day as it was hitting the 1000 mile mark the truck started to lunge/runaway and stalled. I finally got it back home and started looking into the issue. Based on what it was doing, (lunging/running away, and at idle in park random burst of rpms and then dying after doing it a few times), I started to do some research. Most of the answers I found claimed it was the IPR valve. I found that the IPR valve is supposed to, as claimed by some, be pulled and inspected every 100,000 miles are so and if need be replaced or the rebuild kit gotten for it. So I decided to just replace it as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filters.
When replacing the IPR valve I noticed that it was original and that its screen was missing. I didn't have any problem moving the little piston in the center of the shaft with a small bolt however that doesn't really mean that it isn't bad. I tried a magnet to see if the screen was still in there and nothing came out. I did not try using a camera as I do not currently have one, to look inside the port to see if I saw it. After replacing the IPR valve with a brand new one and changing the oil I started the truck. It seemed to be running a little ruff so I let it warm up. Not one minute later the exact same thing started happening, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), so I called it a night. The next morning I decided to change the fuel filters. No that it matters the order in which I did it, but I changed the top end filter first and the the one on the frame with the dealer recommended OEM filters as was the case with the oil. I did find in the filter on the frame that there was a small amount of sand and clay soil looking matter in the filter. I did clean out the filter housing as well.
After replacing the filters I started the truck to warm it up. I noticed that it was still running a little ruff but no random, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However after five minutes it started coming back. I finished letting the truck warm up and took it for a drive. Got it up to between 7-80mph for about 15 miles to try and see if I could "blow out" whatever may be in the fuel if that was even an issue I do not know. The truck seemed to get more power and run a little more smoothly so I stopped at my buddies house not to far from where I was and let it idle. No issues other than a little ruff idle. After about 10min I took off towards home doing similar speeds. I noticed at a little over 2000rpms that the truck was shaking a little but so I dropped the speed down. When I got home not more than one min after idling the same issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), started happening again.
At this point I took back to the interwebs and came across a post that said the ICP might be bad and does cause this issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However I also noticed that this is a huge debate as to whether or not the ICP can cause this. Ford master mechanics say no and other mechanics say yes and round and round it goes. I decided to do the simple test many recommended which was to simply unplug the ICP and see if anything changes. Things did change. No more lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). Not more than two minutes after plugging it back in, allowing the computer to account for it now, the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) came back. In the middle of it doing this I unplugged it and that went away. So needless to say I replaced the ICP and voila the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) is gone but the ruff idle is still there along with a slight loss of power.
To answer some questions:
1. The oil and water are not mixing so I am almost positive that the heads are fine
2. The intercooler couplings are leaking a bit. I have ordered the new ones and will replace them as soon as they come in. Can this cause the issue?
3. I am blowing no white or black smoke except for when the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) issue was present and the truck almost died. It would knock occasionally when it almost died and would send a slight puff of black smoke which I assume is a low or high fuel issue from the truck trying to die
4. I have not had the no start issue at all
5. I did not see any debris in the oil during the oil change
6. I didn't do the air test on the ICP port as I do not have the adapter.
7. The only code I got on the IBD II port was when I unplugged the ICP which was to be expected
8. I found no damaged wires
I am at the point where I am wanting to take it to ford to have them run a diagnostic on it but am wondering if there is anything else I need to be looking for. Here are a few questions I have.
1. Does this sound like a bad injector? (When I bought the truck it would sound like a misfire or ruff idle condition was present for about 5-15 seconds and then it would smooth out with no issues. It would run a little ruff if you tried to take off without letting it warm up, which I did once or twice and low rpms, but when it warmed up no issues were present).
2. Could this be the HPOP?
3. Could this be the FCIM? (The previous owner had replaced the FCIM not to long ago with one from Ford I believe. Said it cost him something like $700)
4. Could this be something clogging the oil screen under the manifold?
My final question right now is do any of you know where or what brand OBD II reader or software I can get for a decent price that will tell me the voltage of each injector and FCIM is without me having to go to Ford to get it looked at.
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
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05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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