I did some searching and cant seem to find this in a 6.0 (massive results in IDI)
If I rev my truck over about 3200 rpm and release the throttle, as it comes back down to idles it will stall.
Ficm voltage is fine and I am running a stock tune, ICP doesn't seem to drop until the stall...
What should I be looking for?
What is the tool part number for a good pair of snap ring pliers that are heavy duty enough to remove the snap ring from inside an 05+ 4x4 front hub? I have broken two pairs of regular snap ring pliers attempting to remove it. The snap ring itself is roughly 1/8" thick and copper plated. It really wouldn't be that difficult to remove, but that collar on the spline that it has to pass over is thick too and it is whipping me something serious.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
View 2 RepliesI got a 6.0 in 2006 tow truck happens to be after using the truck for 2 to 3 hours the truck stalls out while driving can seem to figure this problem out , I change
ICP
FUEL PUMP
FUEL FILTERS
INJECTORS 1-3-5-7
Can't seem to figure it out...
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
Ok a little background on this truck. it is a 04 F350 6.0. Early build, with the ipr under the turbo an the earlier hpop. A few years ago the oil cooler blew on me and I got it rebuilt with a full bullet proof diesel kit and high flow egr cooler. Last year my turbo went out and I had it rebuilt and added a 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust. there have been multiple other parts updated and replaced but those are the major ones.
A few weeks ago I began loosing my oil pressure at idle. It was hard starting as well. I though that was from the cold winter here but it apparently wasn't. Before I had a chance to check the truck out, it lost all power on my way to work and staled out on me.
I just finished tearing into the high pressure oil pump. Found the ball plug was gone from the side. Tapped and plugged it. When I started it up it seemed to be idling fine. After it warmed up a bit i gave it some throttle and it would not go over 1000 rpm and spit out black smoke. Once the engine temp came up the idle speed dropped to around 300 rpm and eventually stalled. My oil pressure never dropped and the check engine light never came on. With the engine up to temp it will turn over and fire but as soon as I let go of the key it dies.
I do not currently have anything to get readings other than whats on the cluster. Do i have any options that wont cost me a ton to get my readings?
2004 excursion 6.0, head studs, 4inch straight pipe, egr delete, sct live wire ts running vivians looney wild, so I recently rebuilt the trans (5r110w) just soft parts rebuild frictions and steels, and it has about 5000 miles on it since, but I have ran into the issue of the engine stalling when it's cold when I put it in gear, any gear that is, but once it's warm it's fine, just checked the fluid and it was in the sweet spot, also on my tuner the command gear is going from 2nd, 4th, and 6th completely skipping 1st, 3rd, 5th, trans was shifting normal until about 100 miles ago and my tuner is telling me my icp is 600ish at warm idle and at wot only seeing 1500 psi maybe, any clue as to what this would be? Truck won't start with stock tune, guessing the looney wild is ramping up the icp and is seeing at least 500psi to start. I'm thinking it's possibly the hpop.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
Its a 2003 f-350 6.0 started out just stalling out throw it in N it would fire right back up then started to sputter now I have a no start doesn't even try to start no smoke on crank. all of this between -3 and 5 degrees outside. According to my scan gauge ipr is 14.8, have ficm sync, ficm main is between 47 and 48 cranking, builds 0 icp irp duty cycle doesn't go up either. Pretty sure my icp is bad leaks oil though the sensor and pig tail is covered in oil. Truck has 197000 miles hpop, injectors, and ficm changed around 165000 oil cooler and blue spring at 1800000...
View 13 RepliesTruck ran good, but for the past month every once in awhile it would just stall quick, no rumbling, no smoke, like someone just turned off the ignition, if you turn the key it would immediately fire right back up. Well today it would not start back up. Pulled the IPR plug, no good. FICM replaced abt. a month ago. Checked with Scan Gauge, oil pressure abt. 925 while cranking dropped to abt. 780 after extended crank. And no codes. I do notice when turning key on I hear less clicking/noises going on. All dash lights come on and turn off as usual. Tach doesn't move.
View 14 RepliesI have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
Yesterday it was running fine today only half throttle, going up a hill no power throttle push 12 down let off the throttle engine smooths out and starts picking up speed ....
EGR stuck????
CAC boots look good do not hear any leaks on the tubes
no smoke
ICP 675 at idle full temp, cold 1200
OEM filters with OEM caps
ficm 48.5 to 47.5
Can hear the turbo spool up
Oil temp less than 10 dec difference with water temp
No code showing up
141,000 2003 F-350 dually
While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
I have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
my truck under throttle sounds like a jake brake noise that kicks in an out comming from turbo does it supose to do that
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