Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Replaced ICP Now Got Code 2286?
Jul 1, 2016
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My truck has never felt like it has run right since I replaced the leaky ICP. The replacement was not a Ford or International product so I am afraid that it was a mistake. I replaced the plug also. I'm sure I got the wiring correct. I've been several hundred miles since.
I got on it today to get on the interstate and threw a code 2286. I cleared it and drove for a while to see if it would come back. It does fine unless I get on it, then it will throw the code again. I did it twice in a row so I figure I have bought a cheap ICP? My scan gauge is not good enough to get all the on the on the fly info you need.
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OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have a 2007 f350 6.0, just replaced the oil pressure sensor in January, now, my truck is surging like crazy! I heard it could be the ICP sensor, how easy is this to change? And where do I find it if this is the problem!
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Had a bad turbo on my 07 F550 with a 6.0. Replaced it today and took her for a ride. Started smoking and oil was spitting out of the weep hole in the muffler. A lot of smoke. The truck was smoking before I replaced the turbo too but I didn't have any oil coming out of the weep hole. I'm hoping it is just oil that had been passed into the exhaust by the bad turbo that is now being burnt off and pushed out by the new turbo. Does this sound plausible?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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The other day i noticed my turn signal was blinking rapidly. I found that my drivers side bulb was burned out. I am trying to convert most of my lights to LEDs on my truck and figured that I'd replaced the tail lights with LEDs. After replacing both rear taillights with LEDS I still have the rapid blinking turn signal. Whats the deal? is it just the LEDS or what?
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I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
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I have an early 03 F250 6.0 that won't start after I replaced all 3 FICM connectors, also # 8 injector pin and connector. It has been almost impossible to start before the repair.
I checked the grounds on
Pins #1 2 3 22 they were all .5 ohms
Pin #32 was 1.0 ohms.
Pins #7 27 were 12.7v ( battery voltage)
I have double checked all pin connections and wire colors, they are in the right holes, I haven't done any cranking voltage tests, as I am alone. The FICM has 48.2 v.
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2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
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Well, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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Truck has been running very well while in the warmer North Carolina climate pulling trailers with no limp mode or wrench light. However, when daughter started the truck this morning, SGII showed one DTC and when she pulled it up it was P0675. OK, glow plug num 5 maybe or the module. No issues starting or rough cold idle. I told her to clear the code and we'll see if comes back.
She did ask if it is something she should have it repaired before the trip back to Vermont. So I thought I'd ping the group here since reading posts, they seem to be fairly easy to replace (and assuming it isn't a chafed wire) and I could probably save her some $. Just want to make sure there isn't any chance of real engine damage.
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We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
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My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
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It happened to me. I was 2 hours into my trip and towing the camper when I got the reduced power CEL. I have 28,000 miles on my truck and always tow in "tow/haul" mode with the exhaust brake on. I was lucky in that I has on a limited access highway and just happened to be approaching an exit to a fuel station with big rig access. I limped in there at about 20MPH checked the code with my Forscan lite and found the P259F code. I typed that into Google and found a thread on another Diesel forum! Some guys said it went away after 3 or 4 restarts. So, I tried a couple of restarts...no luck.
I was down to half a tank of fuel so I filled up and parked. As long as I was parked, I went into the camper and used the bathroom. When I got back in the truck, I thought about the WiFi scan adapter plugged into my OBDII connector and wondered if I should unplug it. I did and everything worked! So, I drove the next 4 hours in "tow/haul" mode, but I left the EB off. I also never plugged in the WiFi scan adapter because I didn't want to risk going into the reduced power mode again. Anyway, we made it home without incident. One of the reasons I traded my 2013 in on a 2015 was to get the engine improvements and the EB. I sure don't want to give up the EB. I'm going to take mine to the dealer, but after reading this post, I'm not expecting anything much.
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Got this nugget this morning after dropping my daughter off at school. I also noticed a significant reduction in power. Had to get fuel so while pumping, I checked the code with my WiFi reader and Engine Link app.
Got the code number which came up with this: 6.7L ? MIL on with DTCs P208E P218F P204F ? 2011-2016 Ford F-Super Duty
I decided to clear the code and see if it would instantly return which it didn't. Power came back as soon as it was cleared too. Will see if it comes back. Looks like the code is saying there might be crystals on my DEF injector. I did have a regen last night right before I parked for the evening and then this showed showed up first thing this morning. Would a DEF injector nozzle be covered under the emissions warranty if it comes back?
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Long story behind it but finally got my scanner working right and checked the suggested systems for p2290.
IPR was 77+ on start up dropped to around 31 at idle
FMP is in the 46.5 to 47.5 range
SYC was at 1 and occasionally at 1.5
ICP was at 550-650 during startup and quickly ramped up to 1150 then settled into around 850 at idle.
The only thing that I'm not sure of is the IPR being 31 at idle, is that what it should be. The others I think are within normal operating parameters.
The truck starts but has no power. Can barely go up a slight hill on my street. Seems like it's going to be fine but as soon as I apply a little gas it just falls off.
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Local Volunteer Ambulance company has '09 -6.0 with very low power until warms up. Shows code P0234. FICM tests out 47.5- 48 volts.
Doing searce it looks like we have to pull turbo. Vehicle has 54K miles and never had EGR delete.
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I just pulled over when my truck flashed reduced power. Pulled code and it came up poo88. What to expect?
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So I just went on a vacation pulling my horse trailer (first time leaving the state with this truck) and at about 5 hrs into the trip I had a message Reduced Engine Power and went from 70 on the interstate to 10 miles an hour and slowing rather quickly. I ended up shutting it off and restarting and it came back just like normal. I found the nearest ford dealer and they put the computer on it and it showed absolutely nothing, no codes and nothing wrong. The mechanic reset some things and we went on our way.
Then I ended up getting a check engine light saturday. I found someone to read the code and it came up with P164A which is an O2 sensor, he was able to clear it and I put on probably 50 miles today and no check engine light. I have about a 10 hour drive back home. Still debating if I take it to ford near here if they will do anything now that it doesn't show a light?? I hate to chance getting broke down on the highway with a truck that will basically shut down like that?? It just doesn't make sense to me.
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