I am tearing down my junkyard engine to prep it to put into my truck and I came across this on the rear main seal... is this a wear ring?
It kinda looks like a oil slinger. My new seal is on the way so I have nothing to compare it to.
I don't want to be yanking on it if it's supposed to stay.
2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
View 1 RepliesI haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesHad oil seal failure on the rear differential at 35,000 miles?
View 6 RepliesHave a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
View 10 RepliesI was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
View 1 RepliesI just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 Replies2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
When I was going through the engine compartment of the recently acquired 7.3 yesterday, I noticed the power steering pump cap was not on properly and only had one of the two tabs locked. I pulled it off and discovered that the o ring seal was broken.....so I went to advance and found an o ring that fit properly and replaced it. Noticed that the PS fluid was very dark and discolored. When I would start it up whenever I turned the wheel it made a weird noise, not a whine but more of a low pitched sound. Then it went away. Figured I needed to address it asap.
I had the power steering system flushed today through the pump at a local fluid change company with Mercon V before any further damage could be done and they told me the extracted fluid had water in it because some of the fluid was a light pink. As well as very dirty. I bet that the loose cap let all sorts of dirt and water in. The rest of the fluids looked good.
I have no issues with steering or brakes, but there is now a slight hum at times now that I did not notice before. Mainly at low rpms. Brakes are actually better now than they were before. The more I drive it the less it seems to hum.
Eventually am going to flush near the booster and put in a magna filter and synthetic but I couldn't leave it the way it was.Should I be concerned with the low, intermittent "hum" at times or is that just air that needs to be worked out of the system over the next few days?
What is the tool part number for a good pair of snap ring pliers that are heavy duty enough to remove the snap ring from inside an 05+ 4x4 front hub? I have broken two pairs of regular snap ring pliers attempting to remove it. The snap ring itself is roughly 1/8" thick and copper plated. It really wouldn't be that difficult to remove, but that collar on the spline that it has to pass over is thick too and it is whipping me something serious.
View 5 RepliesMy daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
View 1 RepliesI need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
View 7 RepliesIf I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
View 1 RepliesI wanted to bring attention to an oil leak I discovered today. It appears to be from the rear main seal. My Passat is a 2015 1.8Tsi with the 09G auto. You can see the leak with the belly pan on. From the front of the car, looking through the vent for the transmission pan look at the lowest point on the bellhousing there is a small machined flat area. Pictured is that area (with the pan off). There is also oil on the back side of the bellhousing on one of the main bolts between the block and trans. The three rear bolts on the pan need to come off to see that one. I would recommend looking at this area on your Passat. Currently my Passat has 3,490 miles on. It's not a terrible leak, but it is worse than what should be present on a modern, new vehicle.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
View 6 RepliesLast year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
My girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
View 5 Replies