Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rear Heater Not Working
Feb 23, 2016
I have tried the dealership 3 times and have not been able to get the rear heater to work properly. When the vehicle is moving I have heat but if I slow or stop the heat goes away. I believe it only happens to the rear heater as front feels fine.
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Was driving today and noticed that at idle my heated air went away. Coolant temp at this point was 185f. Once back to driving, the heat returned. The variant in temperature seems to be related directly to engine speed. What is wrong?
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I didn't have time to trouble shoot but heres my problem. I plugged my 2016 6.7L in last night and when I checked it this morning the block was still ice cold. I didn't have time to investigate but i did make sure i had power up to the truck. And i noticed there's a connector just after the truck plug as well.
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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I don't think that my block heater is working correctly if not at all.
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Had a large puddle of coolant under my '05 X this afternoon after work. Seems it's leaking from the Y connection coming off the heater water control valve. See first pic.
I think it's part number 18472 (labeled with the circled 1) on left side in pic #2. Need to confirm this is the right part and the full part number?
Lastly, how the heck do you change this hose? It's tucked up under the cowl and looks like difficult.
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I can't get my truck to start. The block heater isn't working and I previously put flush and water in it, intending to drive it and flush it directly after. Well I never really could drive it and now it won't start again. The weather is going to turn off cold, around zero this weekend. I need to know how to keep the block from freezing and cracking!
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Have 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
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My ford f250 i have a intermittent knocking sound when i turn the ac/ heater? it is not all the time and can never tell when it is going to happen. i always think the worse like it is a cylinder or something.
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Does the block heater come with some kind of a cord? I found the Box Link stuff under the back seat finally, the dealer said the block heater should be under there too? But it aint there?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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I'm hoping it's a small simple fix when I climb under the hood. Has happened before, but was an easy fix. The smell is much stronger this time. Any major problems any of you have had if I can't find the culprit?? Learning as I go...always up for checking on every possibility.
2004 F250 SUPER DUTY 6.0 ......
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Don't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
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Well, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
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Ok, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
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What the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
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Okay, so I have a 14' 6.7L, about 18,438 miles on it and the check engine light came on when I was at the gas station ready to leave, and so I took a field trip to auto zone and they scanned the CEL and it came back as P20BA - Reductant Heater 'A' Control Circuit Performance and they said I need to change out the pump assembly so I took it to the dealership and they cleared the code which worked for awhile, about 4 months ago the light came back on and I'm wonder if I should get the pump/heater changed out or get it deleted? The warranty is going to end in august this year..... It's been fine no issues with the truck, even tho I drive with the CEL on and just wondering what I should do? The CEL has been on for almost 5 months.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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It blows, but only lukewarm..... feels like it's out of or low on freon, but I won't know until tomorrow. Searched the forum but I appear to to be the first with this issue? I just hope it's covered under warranty, whatever it is.
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