Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Randomly Shut Off When Pulling Into The Driveway - P0341 Code
May 21, 2015
A Little Background, my FICM wasn't bad per se but it would dip below 45 volts when the outside temp was around freezing. I pulled it and sent it for repair at the same time the Atlas 40 tune was loaded into the FICM.
First few days of driving mileage was better, truck ran great. All of a sudden one day pulling into the driveway it randomly shutoff. Two occasions since it has acted goofy at started, bucking a little a low throttle. Mileage has returned to how it was before I had the FICM fixed and ATLAS tune applied. To this point I had no codes at all.
Now today it randomly throws P0341 - Camshaft sensor out of range.
So heres the question - do I replace the sensor or try to get at the harness for inspection? Out of range would usually mean the sensor itself is failing while open circuit is usually wiring related. I know its uncommon for this particular sensor to fail but i'm not sure which direction to go.
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
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Resealed HPOP, reinstalled, started right up, ran for good half hr, shut it down, started it next day, ran for 15 min. Revved it up, n all that, good to go, took it for a spin around block, died as pulling into driveway. At crank Dashcmd shows 200 psi on HPOP. I'm double checking the gear bolt right now. When I installed the pump I seated the gear by hand n torqued bolt to spec, so idk...
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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So a few day ago my truck shut down while driving. I posted up and checked the ficm harness as suggested. Things were a bit lose so I zip tied my harness around the ficm. Thought it was all fixed and test drove it and it shut down again. I tried to start it a few times and my ICP was a tad low about 450 ,I have a brand new ICP and harness. Checked my scan gauge and I have code p2614. I cleared the codes and the truck started right up. I need to get this sorted out I was supposed bro go home tomorrow from working out of town all week about 100 miles from home...
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AE shows 600+ ICP while cranking, 48.5v-49v ficm continuously, has sync, has 50 psi fuel with manual gauge, replaced fuel filters with Ford, fresh oil change, 2 new batteries, cleaned EGR, no codes.
Prior to this I changed the driver's side injectors because (before I had AE) Ford said it needed #8 (power balance) due to a stutter at minimal load at highway speed. Figured I'd change them all due to 290,000 miles. Had enough cash for 1 side this month. Ran great! Had AE hooked up and showed all good pressure, volts, temps then died in the driveway.
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1st major problem on my 72,000 mile 2011 F350 is an oil leak that has gotten worse in a short time.. I've been putting it off as I can't be without my truck as I use it for my business but I have to take it in as its leaking pretty bad and leaving its mark on every driveway I pull into,going to take it in the morning to get diagnosed,going to have the exhaust smell in cab during regen looked at also as its been a problem for sometime time now but have just have delt with it till now. Here is a pic of the leak...
Where it may be coming from? Looks like its coming from the top side somewhere..
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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A couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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Recently I have been smelling exhaust fumes in the cab of my truck when at a stoplight or parked in the driveway. When driving, the smell tends to go away. This occurs with the windows up and the climate control on auto. I can also smell this when I shut down the truck and exit. I am looking for anything that may be causing this. Hoping not to have to take it to the dealer.
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Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
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My '05 Elantra GT has done some weird stuff in the last few days: Losing complete power for a second when pulling out of the driveway two days ago, flickering headlights constantly, complete loss of power while trying to start last night, then suddenly everything started right up. Today, it lost power 2 times in about 10 seconds while I was sitting at a light on the way to work, but the motor never shut all the way off so it just restarted. Today at lunch, I turned the key and everything went dark. I pressed the brake pedal, the dash clock came on and then I was able to start the car. Bad Diode in alternator?
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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I have posted a pic of a smoke issue I am having while pulling.
I just pulled a 10,000 lb trailer up a few 7% grades at 8-10,000 ft and the best I could do was 40-45 mph at 6mpg. Every hill would set a P1211 and when the truck downshifted to 3rd the smoke would go away for the most part.
Truck is 100% stock and pulls the same as my F350 with 3.73 gears but smokes a lot more.
The smoke is kind of annoying and performance seems sluggish especially given the 4.88 gearing. Where to start?
Has new ipr, hpop, icp, fuel filter, air filter, fresh 5w40 mobil 1.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L Powerstroke. While towing my RV this weekend in 96 degree weather, it appeared that my transmission started to whine after several minutes of pulling some large hills. I was in tow/haul mode. It did not appear that I was loosing power however the sound was very concerning. The sound went away after leveling off, or switching out of tow/haul mode. The sound coincidentally appeared as I approached the top of the hills which ranged from 1 to 3 miles in length.
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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I have a 2013 that randomly stutters or cuts out for a second while accelerating. This happens whether I am slowly accelerating or full throttle. This used to happen once every few months but it is happening more frequently now. It will randomly happen while trying to accelerate on the freeway. The truck feels like it stalls, then takes off. It feels like it loses boost pressure so maybe a wastegate issue or possibly an EGR valve issue. No codes are set.
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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