Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Overheats When Towing / Almost Instantly Under Load
May 22, 2015
In the last 3 weeks I've replaced the oil cooler. IPR, ICP, fan clutch, intercooler, rebuilt the turbo, new elc coolant, egr valve, thermostat, new batteries, positive battery cable, and alternator and a host of other crap. Now I have a new problem.
When towing it overheats, almost instantly under load. I was towing a 9k trailer up a hill, a total of about a 30 second climb and it overheated (242 degrees). I'm thinking head gaskets at this point as they are stock and have the tty bolts installed.
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I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
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I have a plow truck that over heats and cuts off. And when it cuts off it won't start till next day? I know the plow has to be low this is not my first plow truck.
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Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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Just looking for comments on using the cruise control while towing? and what's the recommended weight for using the tow haul mode. The enclosed trailer I have is about 3300 lbs. taking it across the country empty. 2004 6 liter.
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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I was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
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Took my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
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I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
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Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
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I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
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2013 6.7L F-250
The owner's manual recommends idling for a period of time after towing to allow the turbo to cool somewhat. After towing a 10K lb travel trailer in the mountains, what temperature should i shoot for as sufficiently cooled? When towing the oil to averages about 210-215-F. Normal operating temp is about 190F.
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For the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
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My truck has been awesome. I tow about 16,000# behind my F350 about one weekend a month. 80% of the time my trips are 150 miles or 700 miles round trip.
Over the last three trips while towing I've noticed that the upshifts are not as smooth as they used to be. They used to be really smooth. Impressively smooth considering the load. Now they are rough.
Planning to have them check it when I go in for service next.
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Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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