Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Overheating - Temp Jumped From Where It Is Running At Lately
Apr 24, 2016
While driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
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The truck has been just terrific, mostly used for towing our travel trailer. Earlier this year i developed a leak and lost 3 quarts of oil before I caught it. I would think with 15 quarts in her this shouldn't have been too big a deal. However, I am now experiencing 10-15 degree swings between ECT and EOT. Before I give the particulars, yes, I have had three new thermostats, two Ford and one brand X.
Anyway, coolant temps are 184-200 depending upon load, terrain, etc. At the same time, oil temps run 205-230. There is no oil cooler to get plugged up. She's got 120K on the clock, doesn't burn oil, no disappearing coolant. I am concerned about blowing a head gasket or other serious damage at these temps, but don't have a clue where to start? Yes, the fan does come on, but still this seems plenty hot.
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So the other day while towing my 5er my temp alarm on my CTS went off at 220. I let off and it cooled down, but not where it usually runs. Unloaded it will run at 200 where it usually runs at 180 or less. Its an 06 EGR deleted, coolant filter, studs, the works. Water pump? Thermostat? Coolant level is ok.
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I recently noticed on my truck that my oil temp was running high, I would go down the interstate at 75 mph and the oil temp would get up to 215-218 while my coolant temp would sit around 192-196. So, I took it into the shop and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler and had it replaced 2 years ago when I had my injectors and gaskets replaced along with my egr deleted. So, got the truck yesterday, going 60mph down the highway, truck ran an oil temp of 192 and the coolant at 188. Was great, but later on once I got to the interstate going my 75 mph, The oil temp jumped to 209 and my coolant sat at 192. Not sure what the deal is, was told the oil cooler was replaced and wanted some input on what else I could be looking at. I currently have 5w40 synthetic oil running in it. I have an EDGE CTS tuner on it and tuned it back to stock mode, but oil temp still jumps up to 209 and coolant remains around 190-192.
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I have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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My truck has a new HPOP, Water pump, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, and t stat. For a while it would only overheat when pulling a load or just pushing the truck hard. now that i have tuned my truck to street from SCT it overheats only when idling with ac on for a long period of time. turn on the heat and the temp jumps back down. i have full gauges and can do diagnostics but am not sure what to look for. My guess is a clogged radiator but that seems unlikely. My radiator dose have a small leak at the gasket could this cause it?
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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I have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
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I know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
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This is not on my truck. This is on my buddies 04 we just did the egr delete and oil cooler and a bunch of other stuff to.
Coolant temp doesn't go past 170 which I assume a new thermostat will fix this issue no problem.
but, the oil temp never goes past 140 no matter what driving for an hour at 70 and it doesn't change.
Bad sensor? Or would replacing the thermostat bring the oil temp up to where it should be?
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I recently observed coolant temps of up to 217 degrees as reported by my mini max and oil of 230 as reported by the dash while towing 9000 pounds from San Diego to Las Vegas on the 15 going up the 16 mile mountain grade. My temp gauge on the dash never moved a bit, it stayed in the same spot from 199 to 217 so I assume its not too hot. My mini max defuel setting has the coolant temp at 220? I slowed down and tried to keep it under 210.
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I have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
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I just bought a used 2007 f250 with the 6.0 power stroke. The truck has approx. 160,000 miles on it. He is having a issue with the truck overheating when it is cold out. When the air temp is above 30 degrees or so, he doesn't have a issue. So,my he overheating only occurs when driving down the highway in low temperatures. It can idle in the cold fine.
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I have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
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To start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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I've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?
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This is the only 6.0 I have owned. My tranny temp (with the Torque Pro) is pretty much always the same as my ECT. My ECT will move, and less than 2 seconds later, the tranny will move to the same temp. Is this normal? I was expecting lower tranny temps, but maybe it should be the same because of sharing the radiator.
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