Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Outside Door Trim Falling Off
Apr 17, 2015
I have a 2003 f350 6.0 diesel crew cab. The outside door trim that runs about a 1/4 way up from the bottom off the door is falling off. I was wondering what was the best way to re-attach them.
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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Drove the truck to the store tonight about 5 minutes away and everything seemed fine. Went to leave the parking lot and noticed the check engine light was on. Pulled out my tablet, dongle and fired up Torque Pro. Retrieved error code P0170. Truck has a little over 12,700 miles and is complete stock. I ran a search and didn't come up with much info on this code other than what Just Stroken posted in another post.
[URL]....
Looking for more information about this code?
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The black rubber trim around the windshield is coming off on the top of the windshield. Vibrating away at an extremely annoying tone.
Been that way for a while just a small section, I'd just super glue it down and it would hold for a 1000 miles or so, then I would just do it again until it came off about 1/2 way across. At that point I just used Gaffers tape across the whole top - looks okay dark area of the truck and Dark red paint makes it so you cant notice the black tape at a glance. now that its getting hotter that's not holding but for 500 miles, which is about a week for me and gets annoying to have to stop on the fwy to fix it.
So its time to fix it right, but how?
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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The interior trim pieces that are located where the ceiling intersects with the door are falling out. I tried using Gorilla glue to hold them in place but the heat keeps melting it. If I order the new part from the dealer is the trim easy to install myself?
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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Having problem of center wheel caps falling off? I had two fall off while I've been driving and was lucky enough to hear them fall off and find them in the ditch. I made sure that they were on tight enough but yet they still come off. How to keep them on????
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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Have a rattle of the latch on their center console door? For the last few weeks I've had the rattle I thought was the cup holders but, today I found the culprit. Its the latch hook, the part that locks into the center console. Its somewhat loose. Every time it rattles and my wife is in the car she gives me that look.
How to open the latch cover? I don't see any screws and I really don't want to experiment on a new truck. I have to take it to the dealer to fix the reverse camera but I haven't had much luck with Ford dealers addressing rattles.
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I don't think it is the switch. About 3 months ago towing a heavy load I smoked my Trans during that time when the transmission got over 220 the dome lights would flash and the door ajar warning would flash. I just thought it was a high temp warning. Now tranny is fixed I was towing another heavy load and it started doing it again but all temps are good. I Unhitched load and now it does it most of the time when I accelerate. It seems to do it only under load on the engine. Called ford and they said it's not a warning and they think it's a electrical short. But it only does it if I accelerate.
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Annoying key chime whenever I open my door the truck starts making a annoying chiming sound. Where the chime box is??
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Coolant seen leaking under passenger door it was running down frame rail looked under hood and seen coolant around the air filter cover . Tank was low 2012 cab chassis 33,000 miles
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In my 2007 f-250 it started with the door ajar chime that would click on then off somewhat randomly. Then it started doing it every morning on a cold start for about 20 minutes then the light and chime would click off. Now it stays on constantly. And my automatic headlights are turning on when the engine and ignition is all off and killing my battery. Where to start?
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My truck would not open door locks for like ten minutes or do anything. then all off sudden it worked again its this twice...
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First I lost the power window functionality in the rear left door... didn't think too much of it, then I lost the power door lock functionality, which was bad because I was assuming my door was getting locked when it wasn't actually. Pulled open my door this evening and found this:
I think my truck overheard me when I was saying "I like a good electrical problem, those are my favorite." I'll solder it up to get it working tonight, and then I'll see what a new harness costs... although really they should have used ultra-fine-strand wire with silicone insulation for an application that sees lots of flexing.
My multimeter's test leads are such an example of wiring that is intended to see lots of flexing.
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04 f350, how do i get the door lock keypad number?
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My 2012 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab has a squeak in the pillar between the driver and rear door. Or at least that is where it seems to be coming from. It gets better and worse but it's driving me nuts. Any potential fixes?
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My superduty had rattles on the doors. It sounded like it was coming from the plastic inside part. I have battled thses for months and have finally found what it was. Come to find out is was the glue adhesive that Ford uses to put the moisture barrier in. The simple way to fix it was to duct tape all of the edges up behind the door skin. Tape up the moisture barrier at the edges and put the skin back on. I added some foam behind mine to firm up the plastic skin as well. It was tough getting the skin back on but sure did work it alot. I did this to both front doors. Was not necessary to the rear ones.
With the wind noise beside the head on the drivers side.......At first I thought it was the window seal but that was not it come to find out. I looked a tthe passenger side and looked at the drivers wondering what it could be. I noticed that the drivers door at the top was not in line and laying flat with the rear door. From the plant......Ford had the door at the latch side too high. It was only off maybe 3 16th's......very small but I lowered the door with the striker. Got the door in line with the back door from top to bottom. I also did Epics door mod with the surgical tubing.
I lined up the door and tested it a few times. Made minor adjustments and Solved. Im pretty sure I got 90% out of it. I can still hear A LITTLE but it may be my imagination. Its probably in my head at this point since I have been ticked at the truck since I bought it. I hope mine stays quiet. That wind noise thing has come and gone before so I will post in a few months on how shes doing. As for now I tightened everything down and am gonna let my 6.7 haul!!!
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I have a 2012 Lariat fairly well loaded out. However, the so called "auto" window button on the drivers door works auto in down only. Just curious if something is wrong with mine because it is will not do auto for raising the window. One would think that on a truck the auto would work both ways. I know on my Expedition it works both ways. Just wondering if mine was faulty before I go to the dealer.
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