Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
View 14 RepliesI LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
Engine light came on over the weekend, then went off and back on and off. All orange. Called My ford dealer this morning and they had me bring it down there for the day. Drove me home then picked me up this afternoon when it was done. Also had oil change and fuel filter change.
Scanned for codes found P202D Reductant Leakage and P20E8 reductant pressure to low found tsb 11-12-03 followed tsb and replaced reductant tank pump cleared codes preformed koer glow plug on demand self test passed and preformed reductant leakage test passed road tested to verified repair ok at this.
I have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
View 14 RepliesSomeone just told me I need to put additive in coolant so the injectors don't rust. I've never heard of this.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 F350. Since it was new in August the turbo has made a chattering sound that sounds to me like the waste gate (if it had one) is opening and closing rapidly. Almost like its building boost and dumping it over and over again. Usually happens when it is in 6th gear around 1700 rpm under light load. It also does it from time to time while plowing snow. You can power through it or let off and it will go away. My local dealer where it was bought new put a new turbo on it and the problem still persists. The truck just turned over 8k miles and has been in several times in attempt to resolve the issue. They say that there are no codes on the truck nor does Ford have anything on their service web. My dealer claims that no one has ever had the issue.
View 14 RepliesI started my Touareg this morning in 20 degree weather and let it warm up. When I came back to drive away, I noticed on the center dash display an orange colored warning showing the 4 wheels, and also the selector for the 4 wheel drive selector knob was flashing. It drove fine. I parked it and turned the car off and removed the key and opened and closed the door. Then I opened and closed the door again and restarted it, and everything was fine--no warning sign and no flashing.
View 5 RepliesThis is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
View 14 RepliesWell I finally had time to change out my composite oil pan to the metal one. Nothing was wrong with the old one but Ive seen the composite pans get hit by a rock and crack so I decide to get the metal one. It didnt take long once I had the oil drained and its very easy to get to. Once i had the old pan off I did find two piece of sludge stuck to the oil pickup screen, they had a sliver of aluminum in them. My oil reports have been coming back with high aluminum content so I am not really sure what to think being my motor had 33k miles on it now.
I also changed out the fuel filter and when I dropped the frame mounted filter I found about a teaspoon of rust in it. I'm not one to run my truck down to E but I admit I did so twice since the last filter change. Since I found the fuel filter kit for 60 buck(ford dealer wanted $140) I think I will move my fuel filter changes to 10k miles instead of 15k. Last but not least I also added SPE 6.7 Full Lock Diff Kit which allows the locked rear end to stay engaged past 20 mph. It was a simple 10 min installation with just a few wires and easy directions to follow
New oil pan
Composite pan
Old pan off and view of oil pickup
Two pieces of sludge that came off oil pickup screen
New pan on
Rust in the bottom
I was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
View 9 RepliesI am scheduled to leave on a trip in the morning. I have installed an 85 gallon in bed auxillary fuel tank. I plumbed it in as per the instructions and the same as the last two I had in other trucks. After install I pumped 25 gallons in the aux to see how it worked. Every thing worked right. So yesterday I filled both tanks to the top and left the shutoff between them open.
This morning I noticed a puddle of diesel on the shop floor. Wiped it up and left for the golf course. Got home and found another puddle. I have closed the shut-off valve but it still seems to be leaking. It is not the plumbing I installed. It's hard to tell because I have a protector around the tank but it seems the leak is coming from the top. I just took a short run down the highway and reparked it. I have a can't miss appointment so when I get back I'll see how much has leaked.
Is there some kind of overflow on top the tank? Everything is dry where the aux tank is plumbed in and the air pipe seems to be fine. If the leak stops with the shutoff closed then I'm just gonna head out but if not then I'm gonna take down the shield and see what I can find, but I'd sure rather not.
Truck is a 2011. What about fixing?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
View 7 RepliesRecently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
View 14 RepliesI have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesWell got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.