Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Pressure Dropping Above Idle / Stalls Out As Soon As Try To Accelerate
Aug 15, 2015
Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
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Trucks been running great...did an oil change today ended up replacing the oil filter return tube new oem cap and filter..now i have no oil pressure at idle no funny noises everything seems normal..give it a little pedal and the pressure jumps up to normal...
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but 2nd time 6.0 psd owner. 2 weeks ago we picked up an '03 Excursion and were thrilled because it's been running like a dream and getting great mileage. However, according to my wife just yesterday, and after me driving it today, we have a big problem.
The engine starts, momentarily runs smooth, but then quickly becomes very rough. When trying to drive, it will make decent power, but it has an "off" feel to it, like it doesn't quite make as much power as it did, and it has a slight vibration to it.
Then when you coast to come to a stop, or pull in our driveway, it runs REALLY rough and badly, and usually stalls. I have begun the troubleshooting process. Here's what I know: Ficm tests good - 7 pin w/key on only gives ~46V (only tested w/voltmeter) Had an oil change done today and added a bottle of Hot Shot, will add the fuel treatment when we put more diesel in Believe ICP sensor to be OK. I unplugged it and no change Appears all injectors are firing since it ran down the highway decently, AND you can hear all injectors 'triggering' in a uniform manner with key on Turbo probably isn't sticking because made great power before, and decent power even with the problem NO Check engine lights / codes thrown
Details about the truck:Early '03 w/ 189,000 miles EGR delete done in a previous life w/ IPD kit Turbocharger replaced, in a previous life Headgaskets done, in a previous life (no ARPs though )
Questions & next steps:Even if there was no change w/ ICP unplugged, does that truly rule the ICP out completely? Could the IPR be the culprit?
Others? I have ordered a Scangage 2 and it will be here Tuesday. What's the first thing I should check? To me, this very much seems like an electrical problem; my gut tells me it's some kind of sensor or electrical signal error. What's the best way to investigate this path?
The engine turns over very well, and sounds very uniform so I don't think compression is the issue. Head gaskets have been done, although not with ARP studs. Batteries are very fresh and turn it over very fast. I have already learned a ton reading through these forums and just need some additional direction & brainstorming!
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2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles runs good start easy but does not show oil pressure at idle (intermittent problem that has been occurring more often). It has ford oil filters and ford oil with about 3500 miles on the oil. The check gage will come on and the oil pressure drops out if you give it some throttle it comes back but will drop out again at idle. But like I said the truck runs perfectly fine and the icp shows pressure all the time.
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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I just added 2 used 08 E350s to the fleet both about 180k on em and 1 has a little issue with oil temp and pressure. Driving ect is 222 and oil temp hits 240 then oil gauge drops to 0 and oil light comes on. I know the cooler is junk, but I am gonna pull the lp pump off and see what I find. I have a chance to fix this, or should I just order the 13k box with a reman in it.
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I head out to work this morning and truck drive fine. I do not get on it. I cruised on the highway for 12 miles at 70 mph. I get to a traffic light and then it begins to idle rough and my fuel pressure gauge reads 0. I replace both filters over a month ago and did the blue spring upgrade at the same time. I've put over 2000 miles on the truck since then without issues until this morning. Also the fuel pump was replaced by the dealer a year ago in July. No check engine codes. Where do I start looking?
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My ficm has been dropping to 44v occasionally so I have ordered a 270a alternator from Ed at ficm repair along with the complete battery cable kit. I also took ends advice and bought two new odyssey 65 series batteries. I went with bpd 6phase ficm though because I like the idea of the extra phases to share the load and back up the 4 primaries. I am also doing the blue spring upgrade while under the hood as well.
So my question is this.... My truck is bone stock no mod 53k mi. The bpd ficm can be set to 48,53 or 58 v. I do not see the need to do 58v but have seen a lot of guys doing the 53v option. What is the advantage of 53v? I know if you run 220 thru a 120v light bulb it will burn bright as hell for a little bit till it blows, is this the case with running a higher voltage ficm? Will it eventually wipe out injectors? Or even the ficm processor board? Should I just stay at 48v setting?
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I'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
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Live data readings dropping to zero while hooked up with AE. They drop to 0 and come back but it's pretty annoying. Not sure if it's my old laptop or the actual program itself.
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
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My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
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Driving down the road at 55, the truck just stalled out and won't restart. This has happened before but it always started back up right away. Put a scan tool on it last week and it's giving me an injector 1 low pressure, and egr.
I've read that running the truck at low voltage could fry the FICM and cause all sorts or problems. I just replaced the alternator this week because the batteries always drained while the truck was sitting.
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
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