Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Leak Coming From Seam Between The Tranny And Engine Case
Apr 15, 2015
I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
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I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
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I just purchased a used f250 6.0L a week after having it i noticed a small oil leak slowly got worse (looked as if it was coming from the too rear of the engine) then noticed about a half quart of oil under my truck. While driving it home the oil pressure gauge kept dropping then going back to normal then eventually dropping for good. The truck still ran so i drove it to take it to the mechanic but then the throttle began to become unresponsive and then gain power again then finally the truck shut off and wouldn't start again, blowing oil all over the inside of the hood and top of the engine. I checked it and noticed the pressure sensor pigtail were fraid so i replaced that along with the sensor and added oil but still wont start.
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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I recently purchased my 2011 F250 Powerstroke a week ago today with 87000 miles on it. the dealer assured me they did all the maintenance on the truck before i was able to drive it home. I noticed on my dash that it kept popping up i needed to change oil soon.. so i got out to investigate and realized i was about a quart low on oil so i looked around more and am seeing that i have a leak coming from the back of the engine running down to the oil pan.. I have not noticed any on on the ground at all but what this leak is coming from...
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While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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So, I went in last Monday to do the first oil change thing, and visited with the service mgr. for a while about a couple of issues with my big blue dually. I reminded him about the shimmy in the front end when I hit a crack/seam in the road pavement. Or a bridge abutment.
While it's not the dreaded "death wobble', it does shimmy pretty bad at times. He said in order to claim a warranty on the alignment or tires, I had to prove I've rotated the tires as described in the "little tire book of life". Also, he says you can only make a claim up to 12K miles on alignment issues.
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Well hear I am again fix one problem now I got another problem last time it was fuel now it's oil so what I got going on is a oil leak that looks like it's coming from on top the motor on the back I first discovered this nice surprise when I went into the store and came back out and seen two 8 inch round puddles of oil laying on both sides of the motor like I said at the back I thought rear main seal but upon further inspection it's coming from somewhere on top and rolling down both sides of the motor looks like near the turbo what could this be possibly a line or a check valve or seal or o ring on the turbo? Is there a common thing to go bad on these trucks to cause a leak in that area?
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I have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
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I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
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I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L... Here's the question, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat.
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I have an air leak sound coming from I believe the driver side. Sounds like an air line from a compressor leaking. Could see anything obvious last night or hear well over engine. When driving it's pushing more air. Nothing looked/felt loose. Didn't find any air blowing were I could stick my hand in a hot engine. Doesn't seem to have performance issue, maybe a little more turbo delay.
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I noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
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So I go into my garage last night and see a puddle under the rear of my car. Looks like H20 so I look under and the leak appears to be coming from the right muffler along the seam line. No dents so doesn't appear something hit it unless of course when my wife took it the other day she ran over a curb or something! I rush over to the dealer and head tech says looks like the muffler seam looks to be pulling apart? He says condensation may have eroded metal and caused seam to go.18k miles 15 months old I cannot imagine this happening. Any ways got a NX F-sport as a loaner - already miss the LS! I guess this may take some time as he said they have to get Lexus involved. I will just pack the miles on the NX!
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I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
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After fixing my fuel pressure regulator leak, I found the fuel soaked track bar bushing coming apart.
The whole thing is available, but do the bushings are available? I've seen some poly kits for the '04 and older but nothing for the newer trucks. It's not a budget breaker either way, but it seem silly to throw away the giant bar because the bushing is shot.
If these will fit? 99-04 F250 Track Bar Bushings Red....
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I have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
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After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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What is the correct way to clock the transfer case so it will line up with the new transfer case shift motor. I have read that you should not clock the transfer case shift motor.
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