Found this tonight. Looks like oil in the degas. No smell of diesel, just the familiar odor of new green coolant. Cap was still holing pressure when I opened it.
Looks like I need to change the oil cooler. What is the best way to flush the cooling system out that has a leaking cooler and is contaminated with oil?
I have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
I've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 6.0 with 165,000 miles. No over heating runs fine ,no smoke but I have oily foam in my degas bottle. No coolant in my oil. Scratching my head over this.
View 14 RepliesJust bought a used 2011 ford f350 with the 6.7 diesel engine. Coming from a 7.3 1999 f350 with 330,000 miles, still going good. Took a 1000 mile trip on the 11 truck with out pulling anything did good. Hooked my enclosed trailer to it did a trip of 900 down and 900 back. Transmission temps were staying around the 250f, almost in yellow on gauge. Highest it went was 255f. Light never came on. Yesterday on trip without trailer was staying at 230f on trans temp. This is the first concern.
Second concern, had antifreeze coming out the cap on the degas bottle. Rolled over the hood and hit the drivers side windshield. Stopped un did the cap, it hissed. Put 2 quarts of antifreeze in drove on, this at 300 miles of trip. Primary water pump went out, half way there, at about 550 miles of trip. On trip back, about 1600 miles of trip, antifreeze was on windshield again. Undid cap, hissed, did not need to add any to it. Drove on no problems since. Have bought a new cap and installed.
Transmission doesn't want to shift right when its cold. First starting out. When it warms up shifts great. That's third problem.
I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
View 1 RepliesI have been smelling fuel on and off for the last few weeks. I thought it was the fuel bowl drain valve so I ordered the kit for the whole fuel bowl from diesel o-rings. I did the rebuild this morning and I don't see any visual leaks. Still smell a strong odor of diesel though. The lower engine cradle is all wet and the valley is still a little wet too. Could I still have a leak and if so where to look? Could it be just wet still from draining the fuel bowl and needs time to go away?
View 14 RepliesI have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesWell got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
View 14 RepliesI am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
I am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
View 14 RepliesI have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
View 1 Replies1st f250. The coolant is a little low and wanted to add some to it but I can not get the cap off. It will spin and spin either way I turn it. I've tried pulling up and pushing down on it and no results.
View 10 RepliesMy coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
View 6 RepliesI am looking for some insight on an issue before I lose sleep over head gaskets. Headed out today in the truck, and no heat whatsoever. Im thinking maybe a vacuum issue, but 4wd (esof) and all vents move just fine. About 10 miles in I over heated at 236 ect. After cracking the coolant cap there was no coolant. I havent actively monitored it but last i checked was fine.
The exhaust does not smell sweet and I see no puddles or any evidence of coolant splatter before today when i refilled it today. There was some tonight but im thinking that's from me spilling some today. Egr is also blocked off. I need the truck soon for plowing so need this resolved asap.
New 6.0 owner having some issues. I have read just about everything I can find on the ECT/EOT problem.
208K on it, its been studded, running a full banks system. Factory size tires. Since buying it I have drained and flushed with distilled 4 times before new ELC coolant (system looks very clean, no debris found at all), T6 oil change and cleaned the air filter.
I am having a large delta on ECT and EOT. Here's some data from today's run. There is a lot of it. Readings from every minute.
Ambient Temp 118 today, took it for a run up the highway cruised north at 65 mph and back south at 75mph. I was driving on Saturday at 75mph and got the wrench light for excessive delta with 232 degree EOT.
45mph on the way to the Freeway- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
65mph after accelerating lightly- ECT 197.6, EOT 216.4
10 miles later, flat 65mph cruise set, it maintained a reasonable temp hold and reached max of ECT 199.4, EOT 218.7
After 2 minutes of coasting down off-ramp and sitting at a light- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
after reaching 75MPH moderately- ECT 201.2, EOT 216.5
1 mile later, holding 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 220.2
2 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 224.6
3 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 225.2
4 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 226.4
5 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 227.3
6 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 228.2
7 miles at 75mph- ECT 206.6, EOT 228.5
8 miles at 75mph - ECT 208.4, EOT 231.0
At this point I dropped cruised and coasted to the next exit, a mile down.
After coasting to exit and sitting for a minute- ECT 201.2, EOT 221.0
After a mile at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 221.6
2 miles at 45mph, lightly on throttle- ECT 204.8, EOT 221.0
After idling stopped for a few minutes- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.8
Driving again lightly at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 211.5
Am I just ignoring the obvious oil cooler issue or is this a water pump, etc? I changed out the thermostat again for another motorcraft unit after Saturdays hot run. I swear it did not run this hot when I got it... but I question if they were running nearly 100% water in the system. What EGR cooler there is, if there is a way to tell without disassembly?
I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
I recently noticed a small bead of coolant on the driver's side of my tie rod coupled with low primary coolant level, so I took it to the dealer expecting to face a radiator issue (50k miles). Instead they said that the lower radiator hose was leaking and recommended replacement. Thinking that we were still headed down the radiator path, I had them do the job.
Upon inspecting the removed hose, I could find no obvious fault, so I inquired further. They clarified that it was the seal which had failed (I guess replacing the entire hose is the fix for this?), that it was contaminants that build up in the coolant which attack the seals, and that I should expect it to happen again if I don't flush the coolant every 10,000 miles (yes, ten thousand).
I asked if he meant to say that I should check the 'coolant additive level' every 10k (instead of 15k) and he again stated that a full flush was necessary every 10k miles and that it was a "maintenance intensive engine." This can't be right.