Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Blowing Underneath The Truck And Covering Travel Trailer
Oct 12, 2015
On our way home from North Carolina, we stopped for lunch. When walking back to the truck, I noticed a huge oil puddle underneath the truck. It took about a quart to bring it to the middle line on the stick. Kept driving it home with oil blowing underneath the truck and covering the travel trailer (very unhappy wife!!). Where to look? It looks like it's coming from the valley and pouring down the back. I just replaced the oil cooler when I did the egr delete. I used about 1.25 gallons on the way home.
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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2013 CCLB, 33,500 miles, stock emissions
While towing a 9000 pound trailer at interstate speeds (75 to 80 in Wyoming), when pulling a hill, the truck downshifts to 4th gear, boost is about 18psi, eng and transmission temps in the 230F range, EGTs around 500C or 935F. RPM increases normally to 3000 then the turbo gets very loud and boost drops to about 10psi. The truck shifts to 5th gear, noise decreases but is still present, shifts to 6th and noise goes to normal after a couple seconds and boost builds normally.
This just started today. I have about 8000 miles towing this trailer and never had this before. I have about 350 miles until I'm home so I'm headed back out. Will play around with manual mode and see what it does. I also took a video of the gauges while this happens. Audio is difficult to discern. I will try to get better audio and post when I get home.
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6.0. 115,000 miles. Everything stock, except bully dog intake filter.
I replaced the FICM recently, with one that I bought from the guy who makes those cool You Tube videos, Diesel Tech Ron. I also replaced the EGR valve. I also replaced the intercooler boots on the hot side. I cleaned the intercooler pipes. I cleaned the intake filter as well. I'm still blowing out black smoke, if I floor it when I need to pass someone.
Follow up question: I bought those boots from Riff Raff Diesel and I bought new clamps, too. I'm not sure if I installed correctly. It's already blown one off (it blew the top of the intercooler pipe off, by the turbo, but the boot stays on the turbo) and I put it back on and tightened it all the way down, and I've had to re-adjust 2 times, now, since it acts like it still wants to slip off. Do I simply have the other ones misaligned???
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
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On way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
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Been having a on/off problem with my trailer lights. Some times the right hand side does not work, them it starts working. I thought it was my trailer until I rented a bobcat this weekend. They couldn't get the right side lights to work.
I stopped by my Ford dealer and a service tech came out and checked out my pigtail. All checked ok. It seems odd that both trailers would not work on the right side. Two different types of trailers. One is my RV, the other was a flat bed for hauling the bobcat.
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Hooked up the toyhauler Friday and before we were off of our street I got the "Wiring Fault on Trailer", brakes on trailer worked, got out and verified the lights were working so we proceeded on.
When we got to the destination the manual says that if the fault stays on when disconnected it is an issue on the truck side, it is still on when the trailer is disconnected.
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Borrowed a buddys trailer that had wiring issues. I ended up blowing a mini fues & maxi fuse in my truck. 06 F350 CC ... Replaced both fuses in the truck and had park lights on the truck but now dont get any lights on any trailers. All factory plugs 7pin & 4 pin. I get turn signals and brake lights on the trailers but that is all. If the fuses are good were should I start looking for problems? or is there more fuses I may be missing. I have metered all the fuses under the dash aswell as under hood all check out. Where to go next ???
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My trailer wiring is not working, at least from what I can tell. Embarrassingly, I know this because the little brake light I have in my trailer hitch no longer lights up. I've tried different bulbs and a different unit, so it's definitely the wiring. I do not have access to a trailer right now, so unfortunately that's all I have to go on. It's plugged into the 4 pin jack. Is this something I should be going to the dealer for, or more like a blown/loose fuse or something?
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Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
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It just came on when I ran up to the gas station followed by the airbag light and the traction control light.. truck ran fine. I've tried looking this up found some people have had this message and there truck won't start.
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Is there a fuse or something to check? All other lights work, just book the running lights
2006 f250 4x4 CC
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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2005 Excursion 6.0 with normal bullet proof mods... towing 6000# dual axle enclosed race car trailer.
I've been towing this same package since 2008 all over the eastern half of the US and averaging right around 10MPG.... hand calculated from fill up to fill up. Sometime a bit more on a flat run to Daytona, or a bit less through the mountains... but very close to 10 MPG.
Well the factory trailer tires finally wore out and I replaced them with 8 ply Maxxis M8008 trailer tires...... highly recommended by the camper crowd.
Since then, I've been round trip Baltimore to Pittsburg, and Baltimore to Daytona (total of 2500 miles) and I've been averaging a bit over 12 MPG consistently..... again hand calculated. Same package, same highway speeds.... nothing has changed in my towing style.
Seems almost to good to be true. At this rate the tires will almost pay for themselves by the time they are worn out. Any trailer tires make such a difference ?
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I have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
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Does the Excursion charge the battery on my travel trailer while driving? I never boondocks but have a new electric tongue jack and wonder about that. I know it charges with a shore line I just assumed it did while driving too.
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I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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