Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Temp Overheating But No Coolant Disappearing
Aug 22, 2016
The truck has been just terrific, mostly used for towing our travel trailer. Earlier this year i developed a leak and lost 3 quarts of oil before I caught it. I would think with 15 quarts in her this shouldn't have been too big a deal. However, I am now experiencing 10-15 degree swings between ECT and EOT. Before I give the particulars, yes, I have had three new thermostats, two Ford and one brand X.
Anyway, coolant temps are 184-200 depending upon load, terrain, etc. At the same time, oil temps run 205-230. There is no oil cooler to get plugged up. She's got 120K on the clock, doesn't burn oil, no disappearing coolant. I am concerned about blowing a head gasket or other serious damage at these temps, but don't have a clue where to start? Yes, the fan does come on, but still this seems plenty hot.
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Ok I bought a 2006 Ford F350 with 6.0 after driving for about 3 weeks I noticed a little bit of coolant was disappearing out of reservoir. So yesterday I was driving with a load Reservoir overflows replace coolant with one gallon of coolant and finish trip with no issues. I started truck today and it will not stop smoking it is also not overheating after hearing about head gaskets. I'm hoping it might be EGR cooler white smoke smells like raw diesel fuel. What to do?
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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While driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
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I've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?
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This is the only 6.0 I have owned. My tranny temp (with the Torque Pro) is pretty much always the same as my ECT. My ECT will move, and less than 2 seconds later, the tranny will move to the same temp. Is this normal? I was expecting lower tranny temps, but maybe it should be the same because of sharing the radiator.
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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I have an 04 F350 and I was wondering if the fan is supposed to be locked up when the A/C is on. In max A/C with the fan on 3 it's barely keeping cool in the 95 degree heat we have been having. If I rev the engine I don't hear the fan noise like I do when the coolant temp hits 218 and the fan roars. Freon was replaced several months ago, along with receiver/dryer and orifice tube when I did the HG's. The A/C shop drew a vacume and did not find any leaks.
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What the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic ex coupe. I have changed the thermostat (twice), fan sensor, temp. sensor. The fan works and when doing an oil change the oil looks normal. No white smoke coming out of my exhaust and I got two radiator flushes, no dirty coolant, and I have replaced the cabin filter. The car doesn't overheat as long as I keep my temperature on hot. If I were to change the temp. to cold it seems like the coolant goes into the reservoir, but it seems like it doesn't go back into the engine. The mechanic that did the flush said that the hoses doesn't to be clogged because the coolant that was removed was green. They stuck an air blower in the heater core hoses and to show that was not clogged as well. The AC worked, I haven't checked in about couple of months. Also when the car overheats there is no smoke coming from the engine. radiator has been burped as well.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
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My truck has a new HPOP, Water pump, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, and t stat. For a while it would only overheat when pulling a load or just pushing the truck hard. now that i have tuned my truck to street from SCT it overheats only when idling with ac on for a long period of time. turn on the heat and the temp jumps back down. i have full gauges and can do diagnostics but am not sure what to look for. My guess is a clogged radiator but that seems unlikely. My radiator dose have a small leak at the gasket could this cause it?
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